American fashion designer Pauline Trigere was born in Paris in 1912. As the daughter of a tailor and a dress-maker, Pauline was working a sewing machine by the age of 10. She claimed that although, she had designed her first dress in her teens, she never intended to become a fashion designer.

Pauline’s career began as a trainee cutter at the Martial et Armand in the Place Vendôme, Paris. In 1937, she immigrated to the U.S., and she spent her first years in New York working for Ben Gershal, Travis Banton, and Hattie Carnegie.

By 1942, Pauline was ready to open her first fashion house, Trigere. With only a dozen or so dresses, she was able to place her designs in stores across the country. Her mastery of cut and her structured tailoring made her designs sophisticated and well-fitting. Known for her work with wool fabrics, Pauline Trigere became famous for her beautiful wool coats and improbably elegant wool evening dresses. The Fashion Institute of Technology’s Valerie Steele has called Trigere’s designs, “deceptively simple”.

By 1945, Trigere was a respected New York label and in 1952 she won her first Coty Award. As was the trend in the 1950’s, Trigere began to produce her own costume jewelry to complement her innovative designs. Later she would also design scarves, ties, and her own perfume “Trigere”. Some of her famous clientele were the Duchess of Windsor, actress Claudette Colbert, Bette Davis and singer Lena Horne. Although it is disputed, some say that she was the designer of Patricia Neal’s refined and dramatic costumes in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”. In 1961, Pauline Trigere challenged current standards of beauty and became the first major designer to use an African-American model.

By the 1970’s, Pauline was starting to mentor young designers and would often lecture at the Fashion Institute of Technology. In 1994, she closed her showrooms and moved to a smaller space in the garment district to focus on her jewelry and scarf collections. Even in her 90’s, she had not lost her ingenuity, and was working with a catalogue company to design a line of stylish walking sticks and accessories for seniors. Not surprising, from a women who spent her life making women look refined and sophisticated.

At 93, Pauline Trigere passed away in her Manhattan home in 2002. As Hollywood glamour has experienced a revival, so has her vintage jewelry and designs. Before her death in 1993, the CFDA was pleased to present Pauline with a Lifetime Achievement Award for her contribution to American fashion design.