Since joining Diesel Black Gold in 2012, Andreas Melbostad has made the name synonymous with downtown cool. Leather, studs, and body-con silhouettes are among the hallmarks of his collections. It’s a sexy aesthetic Melbostad first honed at Phi, the now-shuttered label he brought to cult status in the early aughts. His big assignment at Diesel Black Gold? Denim, and lots of it. Launched in 2008 by OTB president Renzo Rosso, Diesel Black Gold is the high-end extension of the denim-centric Diesel brand, after all. The main focus of DBG is to bring craftsmanship and tailoring to Diesel’s traditional, jeans-centric codes. “I’ve done very little denim previously,” Melbostad told WWD ahead of his first collection in early 2013. A few seasons in, Melbostad demonstrates a unique, innovative understanding of the staple material. He favors novelty finishes like wax coating, metallic leaf, and exotic skins, which give the humble fabric an edgy sensibility.

Just a year after his initial hire, Melbostad was promoted from Diesel Black Gold’s womenswear creative director to overall creative director. This gave him control of the menswear collections, as well as the label’s entire image. Melbostad’s menswear range debuted at the 85th Pitti Uomo in January 2014.

Prior to working at Diesel Black Gold and Phi, Melbostad designed for Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Nina Ricci, Yves Saint Laurent, Guy Laroche, and Nicole Farhi. He graduated with a degree in fashion from the Oslo National Academy of the Arts in 1994, and went on to earn a master’s from the Royal College of Art in London.