Julie Gilhart needs little introduction. With an abundance of experience moving the industry forward and supporting emerging brands, it comes as no surprise that she is also a leading voice on the circular economy and sustainability.
We caught up with Gilhart to get her thoughts on sustainability today and where the industry is headed.
What challenges do you see designers facing today, in regards to sustainability? What opportunities do you see?
Emerging designers have an easier road as they can start with a proper foundation and don’t have to redo or change their baseline. That being said, larger brands can scale and fund sustainability initiatives. From material cost to the fast-paced fashion calendar, it’s hard to be cost effective and competitive when you are starting up. It takes time and effort to educate yourself on how proper practices can be applied to your brand or company. The newly introduced CFDA’s Sustainable Resources Index is a great place to start.
How do you encourage designers to find their voice in the conversation of sustainability?
The most important thing for a designer is to be authentic to their creativity. Start where you’re most intrigued and build on that. The brand Outerknown, founded by pro surfer Kelly Slater, supports ocean-related initiatives and has a large program with a material source that’s made from recycled fishing nets and nylon surplus. Gabriela Hearst was raised on a family-owned farm and produced wool responsibly from the sheep on her property. Both have a genuine interest in these respective scenarios. In essence, the road to sustainability can start with your creative eye and where your interest leads you.
What is one piece of advice that you would give designers starting off on their sustainability journey?
It’s better to start with small steps than to not do anything at all. Make goals and take consistent, tangible steps towards them. Utilize resources like the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Kering’s Environmental Profit + Loss guidelines, and the CFDA’s Sustainable Resources Index.
What excites you most about the fashion industry right now?
I’m most excited about emerging talent and their knowledge of how fashion impacts the planet. They are open to exploring new ways of expressing creativity through sustainability. Their innovation is inspiring for everyone.
Can you talk a bit about the importance of the circular economy and how a new designer can adopt this into their brand?
A circular fashion system aims to grow the industry in a positive direction through sustainable practices that actually change waste into design. Designing into the idea of being “made to be made again” is forward thinking. I won’t kid you — it takes some deep study and can get complicated. I would advise to start with one step. Perhaps it’s with a material that can easily go back into your system of design. Study businesses like Eileen Fisher who have been working with circular design for a long time. It takes commitment but if you want to be a business of the future, your study time will not go to waste….no pun intended!
