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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT

Geoffrey Mac on Fashion, the New Collection & Future Plans

September 21, 2022

Designer Geoffrey Mac’s work has been featured on legends like Lil’ Kim, Madonna, and Björk, and in editorials for V, WWD, ELLE, Skin Two, Rolling Stones among others.
Mac is indeed a familiar face — he won Season 18 on Project Runway in 2020 and regularly gets recognized by fans (CFDA mentored Mac and continues to mentor Project Runway winners). Mac is known for his theatrical and artful custom designs with an emphasis on leather and latex, and special projects and tour costumes that Zaldy brought him in for.
We spoke to the Brooklyn-based designer about his newest collection titled Odyssey, his view of fashion today and what’s next.
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Tell us about your new collection. What inspired it?
The collection is inspired by pathways and protection. Odyssey reflects an epic journey of self-discovery. By overcoming personal losses, celebrating triumphs, and learning to appreciate the full spectrum of the journey, I began thinking about how garments shape your world and where you are comfortable going in your look. I designed it with accessibility in mind, giving a little something for everyone, with looks to fit a wide range of venues. Other inspiration for the collection came from the sex-positive side of the LGBTQ community, with a nod to fetish.
What was your mindset when you were designing?
I was focussed on adjustability and comfort. Garments have elastic cording for flexibility, ease, and personalization. Others are waterproof for versatile resilience. You never know what may happen when you are up for an adventure so feeling prepared and protected is essential.
What, in your view, are the key looks?
The Jock-Jacket. Until now, Jocks (which are a staple in the gay community) have largely been used for undergarments or as a party look. I combined the jock with outerwear, creating the “Jock-Jacket” to give it a sexy twist.
Other key looks include the bulldog-style harness, where leather is embedded with symbols to elevate and update the classic fetish material.We made leather chaps with revealing slashes to give the classic leather pant a grunge feel. On the other side of the design spectrum we made the Bungee Dress. A loose nylon shift was gathered with bungee cords to contour and press shape into the soft silhouette.
You have been in fashion for many years. How would you describe the state of fashion right now?
Fashion is in flux. I think people want accessible garments that they can wear often.  Seasonless garments that mix into a standard wardrobe to give it that boost make all the difference. People are gravitating towards pieces that will stand season after season and not expire with the fashion cycle.
People want sustainability in fashion. We constantly try to improve with each season, avoiding waste, back-stock, and unethical/overseas production.  We switched to drop shipments and made-to-order several seasons ago. Everything (runway and production) is either made in-house or in a local NYC studio with fair living wages to talented artists/tailors.
As a designer, what are some of things you are responding to?
Streetwear and the post-pandemic demand for comfort. Choosing a jersey look over a woven is more commonplace these days.  Streetwear has always been a personal favorite and it’s great to see it ascendant. Also unisex garments have become a focus. It’s satisfying to make a garment that anyone can wear without designing around gender binaries.
What still gets you excited about fashion?
Creating new work, primarily custom for stage. I love pushing new details and silhouettes. Custom is where I can let my talents shine. We are known for challenging constructions in all materials, latex, leather and anything you can think of – we can make it happen.
Where do you want your business to be in five years?
[I’d] love to be booking some tours designing for Cardi B, Beyonce, Missy Eliott or Lizzo.
Designer Spotlight
Geoffrey Mac

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