Fiber Guide: Cotton

Guide

Fiber Guide: Cotton

October 13, 2021

As part of the CFDA’s extensive Sustainability Initiatives Resource Hub launched in January 2019, the CFDA operated an A-Z directory called the Materials Index. The Index was designed as an informational tool, focused on fiber knowledge.

The Materials Index listings migrated in to the CFDA.com Materials Hub and split traditional fibers from new-age innovative fibers/materials.

This series of resource guides are dedicated to ensuring designers have extensive knowledge on traditional fibers.

COTTON

Overview

Cotton is a natural seed fiber derived from the cotton plant. It is the second most common fiber used today after Polyester, making up 26-35% of the textile market (depending on the data source).

Many people think cotton is inherently good because it is “natural”. It is a renewable resource, which is good. But in reality cotton can have an extremely harmful impact on people and the environment. Conventional cotton cultivation is characterized by interconnected environmental, social and economic challenges and is not a good choice for human health or the environment. You will find more detailed information below.

According to Made-By, the most sustainable form of cotton you can use is recycled cotton (which receives an “A” rating – the best!), followed by Organic, In Conversion (which uses non-GM seeds and organic practices without the certification), and Fair Trade cotton. A number of other cotton standards are available as well that are not quite organic, but much better than conventional cotton (see below). Less than 1% of global cotton is certified organic, and that number is currently declining, while recycled cotton makes up an even smaller percentage.

“Farmers have been growing cotton without harmful chemicals for years. Their yield is high, and the quality of the cotton they grow is equal to or better than conventionally grown cotton. Their methods support biodiversity and healthy ecosystems, improve the quality of soil and often use less water. Organic farming is more time consuming, requires more knowledge and skill, and, for now, costs more. But it’s worth it.”- Patagonia

Sustainability Considerations

Cotton is a natural, renewable resource

That said, it is impossible to produce without some environmental impact.

Cotton uses a lot of water

Cotton is largely grown in semi-arid water-scarce areas, worsening water scarcity.
Globally, 73% of cotton cultivation relies on irrigation, and water use can be significant. The global average water footprint of seed cotton is 3,644 cubic meters per ton, the equivalent of nearly 1.5 Olympic swimming pools.
Problems associated with high levels of water use are linked more to changing access to water (through wells and infrastructure) and water contamination (by fertilizers and pesticides) which makes it unfit for use for other purposes.
At present, many of the key cotton-producing countries are under high water stress, including China, India, the US, Pakistan, and Turkey.
Suggestions: Rain fed cotton is preferred since it requires no irrigation and water is circulated in a natural cycle. If irrigation is required, drip irrigation is the most water efficient.

Cotton production uses a lot of toxic, polluting chemicals

According to A New Textiles Economy Report, cotton production uses 2.5% of the world’s arable land, but accounts for 16% of all pesticides used. In India 50% of all pesticides are used for cotton production, with negative impacts on farmers’ health..
Three of the 10 most acutely hazardous insecticides are commonly used chemicals to grow cotton.
In order to remove the leaves of the cotton plant and make cotton bolls more accessible, chemical defoliants are often sprayed on cotton crops. Natural defoliation is preferred.
A large amount of oil can be used depending on the extent to which cotton growing is mechanized to run the farm machinery and to fuel the planes for aerial spraying.
Suggestions: Avoid the use of chemicals. Farmers should utilize Integrated Pest management practices instead of chemicals to control pests. The use of organic cotton is ideal, but Better Cotton, Cleaner Cotton, and In Conversion (which uses non-GM seeds and organic practices without the certification) cotton are better alternatives to conventional cotton.

Cotton contaminates water and ruins the land

Pesticides, insecticides, and chemicals are huge contributors to groundwater and soil contamination.
Monoculture (consistent planting of one crop) depletes nutrients in soil, synthetic fertilizers necessary. In order to avoid this, crop rotation and composting are vital and promote soil health. Organic matter retains moisture.
Suggestions: Avoid the use of chemicals. Farmers should utilize Integrated Pest management practices instead of chemicals to control pests. The use of organic cotton is ideal, but Better Cotton, Cleaner Cotton, and In Conversion (which uses non-GM seeds and organic practices without the certification) cotton are better alternatives to conventional cotton.

Extensive use of GMOs

Cotton is one of the top three genetically modified crops in the world, along with corn and soy. This GM seed is mostly “Bt cotton”, though herbicide resistant cotton is popular in the US. A majority of small-holder and large mechanized farms use such GM seeds.
China, India, Pakistan and the United States have all adopted Bt cotton seed. The impact in India has been especially remarkable. According to the government of India, genetically modified cotton now accounts for more than an estimated 70 percent of total cotton acreage in India. (ERS)
The use of GMOS leads to the loss of biodiversity
More than 270,000 Indian cotton farmers have killed themselves since 1995. Campaigners say a contributing factor may be the high price of genetically modified seeds flooding the market, which is piling pressure on poorly paid growers, forcing many into a cycle of unmanageable debt. Patent laws require farmers to buy new GM seeds every year, no seeds from previous years can be used.
Suggestions: Avoid GMO cotton.

Cotton production has HUGE implications for people, especially farmers

Cotton is grown in over 80 countries; cotton production supports the livelihoods of around 350 million people. When the market is strong workers benefit, but when the market dips or a crop fails can create extreme hardship for workers. In economic terms, farmer incomes are subject to global market volatility. Already low incomes are under constant threat and may fall further. When world cotton prices declined by 40% in the season 2001/02, rural poverty in cotton-growing regions of Benin, for example, increased by 8%.
Social challenges include poor working conditions, with concerns over the incidence of child labor and forced labor in some major cotton-producing countries. As of September 2016, the US Department of Labor reported the existence of child or forced labor related to cotton cultivation in 18 countries, including eight (India, China, Pakistan, Brazil, Uzbekistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan and Burkina Faso) of the top ten producer countries responsible for over 80% of global cultivation annually.
A lack of gender equity, a common problem in the agricultural sector, is holding back inclusive development in cotton farming communities.
Global trade structures are generally unfavorable for farmers. And many farmers are in debt due to the heavy use of costly inputs (including GMO seeds, pesticides and fertilizers).
All these factors contribute to perpetuating poverty for many cotton farmers.
Despite these challenges, cotton still provides farmers with a cash income that pays for building material, school fees, and other household necessities. If produced sustainably, cotton can give millions of cotton farmers worldwide extra income and help them improve their lives.
Suggestions: Work with fair trade cotton producers, and at the very minimum develop a personal relationship with your suppliers. Minimum age laws are not necessarily the best solution to child labor.

Cotton production creates a lot of waste

A lot of the cotton plant goes to waste. Other parts of the cotton plant can be used for other purposes, including other textile products (linters, the short fibers on cotton seeds, can be used as raw materials for rayon). Cotton seeds are often used as livestock feed (which means if you eat meat you might be eating those toxic chemicals!).

Cotton processing is water, energy, and chemical intensive

Cotton usually goes through energy, water, and chemical intensive processes including cleaning the fiber, bleaching, softening, dying, and finishing.
Suggestions: Use naturally colored cotton and less harmful processes.

Potential impacts during customer use care

The use stage of a cotton garment can generate the most important environmental impact.
Cotton can be machine washed and rarely requires dry cleaning. That said, it is frequently washed in hot water and tumble-dried, with high environmental impact.
Suggestions: Design for machine or hand washing over dry cleaning. Can the design be beautiful without ironing? Be sure to educate your customers about best consumer care practices (wash less, in cold water, hang dry, etc.)

Cotton is biodegradable, unless bad stuff is added to it

Untreated cotton is completely biodegradable. Things like dye, toxic chemicals, blended fibers and trims can hinder biodegradability.
Suggestions: Design for optimal biodegradability. Be sure to educate your customers about how to dispose of the product, or even consider a company take-back program so you can re-use or properly dispose of the products you make.

More Sustainable Options

Recycled Cotton: Perhaps the most sustainable cotton is mechanically recycled cotton, which can be made from either pre- or post-consumer waste.
Organic Cotton: According to Fashion Fibers: Designing for Sustainability, studies show that organic farming builds organic matter in the soil, air, and water contamination; increases soil fertility and biodiversity; reduces human and wildlife health hazards, and reduces greenhouse gas emissions resulting from the production of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.
Fair Trade Cotton: Many fair trade standards take into account booth human rights and the environment.
Naturally Colored Cotton: An alternative to standard white cotton. The fiber is soft, biodegradable, absorbent, and resilient and does not need to be dyed using chemicals. The cotton comes in tan, green, yellow, red, brown and white, but there are not as many options as you would have with dying the fiber. For some examples of colored cotton colors, see here.
Cotton made in Africa (CmiA)
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI ) Cotton
Cleaner Cotton™
Cotton Connect REEL Cotton
e³Cotton

Available Standards & Certifications

Recycled Standards

Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) | The Textile Exchange RCS was originally developed in partnership with Outdoor Industry Association’s Sustainability Working Group’s Materials Traceability Task Force in 2013. It is an international, voluntary standard that sets requirements for third-party certification of Recycled input and chain of custody. The goal of the RCS is to increase the use of Recycled materials. You can see the full standard here.

The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) | The Global Recycled Standard is a holistic certification for products with recycled content. The desired effect of the GRS is to provide brands with a tool for more accurate labeling, to encourage innovation in the use of reclaimed materials, to establish more transparency in the supply chain, and to provide better information to consumers. The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) is an international, voluntary, full product standard that sets requirements for third-party certification of Recycled Content, chain of custody, social and environmental practices, and chemical restrictions. The goal of the GRS is to increase use of Recycled materials in products and reduce/eliminate the harm caused by its production. It is intended for use with any product that contains at least 20% Recycled Material. Each stage of production is required to be certified, beginning at the recycling stage and ending at the last seller in the final business-to-business transaction. You can see the full standard here.

Organic Standards

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is recognized as the world’s leading standard for textiles made from organic fibers. GOTS covers textile processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, exportation, importation and distribution. It does not cover the cultivation of the plant, which is covered by governmental organic standards like the USDA or

USDA ORGANIC | Raw natural fibers, such as cotton, wool, and flax are agricultural products and are covered under the NOP crop and livestock production standards – specifically National Organic Program (NOP) Regulation, 7 CFR Part 205. The NOP regulations do not include specific processing or manufacturing standards for textile products, these are covered by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) . However, any textile product produced in full compliance with the NOP regulations may be labeled as NOP certified organic and display the USDA organic seal. The NOP does not restrict the use of the term “organic” in the labeling of textile products that are certified under third-party certification bodies as long as all of the fibers identified as “organic” meet NOP standards. Textile products that are produced in accordance with GOTS may be sold as organic in the U.S. but may not refer to NOP certification or display the USDA organic seal.

Other Social + Environmental Standards

Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) | Cotton made in Africa initiative has set itself the goal since 2005 to sustainably improve the living conditions of cotton farmers in Sub-Saharan Africa. The CmiA standards are composed of the Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) and the Cotton made in Africa-Organic (CmiA-Organic) Standard. They were designed to improve the living conditions of African smallholders and promote environmentally friendly cotton production. In order to maintain this value proposition, standards with social, environmental, and economic criteria were developed. The criteria of CmiA standards reflect the actual sustainability requirements for growing and processing cotton in the participating African partner countries from the field to the gin.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI ) Cotton | Considered a low-chemical option, BCI brings together farmers, ginners, traders, spinners, mills, cut & sew, manufacturers, retailers, brands and grassroots organizations in a unique global community committed to developing Better Cotton as a sustainable mainstream commodity. They certify cotton according to The Better Cotton Standard System, a holistic approach to sustainable cotton production which covers all three pillars of sustainability: environmental, social and economic. It is an easier entry point than organic. BCI allows GMOS. In 2014, 7.6% of all the cotton produced globally was Better Cotton (source: BCI).

Cleaner Cotton™ | Spearheaded by the Sustainable Cotton Project in California, Cleaner Cotton™ eliminates the 13 most toxic chemicals used in conventional cotton cultivation in California, reducing toxicity in our air, soil and watersheds. It is high quality fiber of both Pima and Acala varieties, utilizes biological farming practices, and receives a modest premium which is paid directly to the farmer to help support these practices and it’s tracked from field to spinner using the USDA Permanent Bale Identification barcode and data. Considered “low chemical”, it provides an easier entry point than organic

OEKO-TEX® Certified Cotton | OEKO-TEX® is an independent, third party certifier that offers two certifications for textiles: OEKO-TEX® 100 (for products) and OEKO-TEX® 1000 (for production sites/factories). OEKO-TEX® labels aim to ensure that products pose no risk to human health. These products do not contain allergenic dyestuffs or dyestuffs that for carcinogenic aryl-amines, and several other banned chemicals. The certification includes thorough testing for a long list of chemicals.

e³ Cotton | Farmers sign up to commit to grow cotton more efficiently and without harming the environment. Third-party, independent auditors certify a farmer’s commitment to grow e3 cotton in an environmentally responsible, economically viable, and socially equitable manner in the United States. e3 is U.S. grown from superior seed which produces high-quality fiber and yarn. Certified and transparent, the e3 program supports farmers with the latest techniques. E3 also meets the needs of consumers by providing enormous quantities of sustainably produced cotton.

Cotton Connect REEL Cotton Code | The REEL Cotton Program is a three-year agricultural program providing farmers with training on sustainable cotton farming practices. The REEL Cotton Programme is independently verified by a code of conduct developed with FLOCERT, the organization that provides Fairtrade International certification.

Fairtrade International | Fairtrade is a global movement for change, represented in the United States by Fairtrade America. They certifying social, economic and environmental standards that apply to the full supply chain from the farmers and workers, to the traders and companies bringing the final product to market. They are certified by a third party accredited certification body FLOCERT.

FAIR TRADE USA | Fair Trade USA works closely on the ground with producers and certify transactions between companies and their suppliers to ensure that the people making Fair Trade Certified goods work in safe conditions, protect the environment, build sustainable livelihoods, and earn additional money to empower and uplift their communities. All businesses that work with them are held to rigorous Fair Trade standards, which drive income sustainability, community and individual well-being, empowerment, and environmental stewardship. They certify both cotton growing and cut-and-sew garment manufacture. Unlike Fairtrade, they will certify just one part of the supply chain, which is properly labeled on the consumer-facing label. Instead of working with an existing certification body, Fair Trade USA developed their own standards and compliance criteria. They are certified by a third party accredited certification body SCS Global Services (SCS)

Fair For Life | Fair for Life’s certification system is based on a non-product-specified standard. Most food and non-food commodities alike, including raw materials (like cotton) in the finished product can be certified. This is perhaps where Fair for Life differs the most from other certifications. Every step of production can be certified, including producers, manufacturers and traders, whereas other certifiers simply certify the finished product or only a couple steps of the production. Another distinguishing aspect of Fair for Life is that they also certify entire companies. No other certifier does this. So far there are only a handful, but it shows an impressive dedication to prioritizing transparency in business at all levels. You can find out more under “Company Certification” on their website. They are certified by a third party accredited certification body Institute for Market ecology (IMO).

World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO) | The WFTO Guarantee System (GS) is a revolutionary Fair Trade system that is credible, clear, and affordable. Developed by a group of experts in the field of Fair Trade monitoring and verification, the major aspects in the development of the GS were credibility, sustainability and robustness of the system. To achieve these three criteria, the GS has five major components: new membership admission procedure, Self-Assessment Report, Monitoring Audit, Peer Visit, and the Fair Trade Accountability Watch (FTAW). The FTAW is a participative monitoring mechanism that allows the public to report compliance issues regarding Fair Trade Organizations. The GS is not a product certification system. It is an assurance mechanism that Fair Trade is implemented in the supply chain and practices of the organization. Members that passed the GS process attain the ‘Guaranteed Fair Trade Organization’ status and may use the WFTO Label on their products.

FairTrade Federation | The Fair Trade Federation is a membership organization of businesses who practice 360° fair trade. FTF membership represents an entire organization, not just an individual product. This commitment represents a high bar of fair trade, where each and every business decision is made with the well-being of artisans and farmers in mind. The Fair Trade Federation is the trade association that strengthens and promotes North American organizations fully committed to fair trade.

Organizations & Working Groups

The Textile Exchange | Textile Exchange is a global non-profit that works closely with our members to drive industry transformation in preferred fibers, integrity and standards and responsible supply networks. We identify and share best practices regarding farming, materials, processing, traceability and product end-of-life in order to reduce the textile industry’s impact on the world’s water, soil and air, and the human population.

Cotton 2040 | Cotton 2040 is an initiative created to push for action on important issues to mainstream sustainably grown cotton. They make this possible by encouraging the use of only sustainable cotton with brands and retailers, they help apparel industry professionals develop and implement sourcing strategies, specifically across multiple sustainable cotton standards such as organic, Fair trade, the Better Cotton initiative, and others.

National Cotton Council | The National Cotton Council is the central organization for the U.S. cotton industry whose mission is to ensure the ability of all seven industry segments to compete fairly and profitably in the raw cotton, oilseeds and U.S.-manufactured products market.

Organic Cotton Accelerator | The Organic Cotton Accelerator is an organization whose mission is to create a prosperous organic cotton sector that benefits the farmers, consumers, planet and long-term prosperity.

Responsible Sourcing Network | Responsible Sourcing Network (RSN) is a nonprofit organization committed to ending human rights abuse and forced labor of the sourcing of raw materials found in our daily products.

Sustainable Cotton Project | The Sustainable Cotton Project (SCP) is a worldwide recognized California-farm based program committed to improving the way cotton is farmed and marketed. They host incredible educational events, including their annual cotton farm tour in California!

Fiber Guide: Cotton

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