Fiber Guide: Alpaca

Guide

Fiber Guide: Alpaca

October 13, 2021

As part of the CFDA’s extensive Sustainability Initiatives Resource Hub launched in January 2019, the CFDA operated an A-Z directory called the Materials Index. The Index was designed as an informational tool, focused on fiber knowledge.

The Materials Index listings migrated in to the CFDA.com Materials Hub and split traditional fibers from new-age innovative fibers/materials.

This series of resource guides are dedicated to ensuring designers have extensive knowledge on traditional fibers.

ALPACA

Overview

Alpaca fleece is a natural protein fiber that comes from alpacas, fluffy animals in the South American branch of the camel family.

There are two types of alpaca with distinct fiber types. Huacaya alpacas have crimped fleece like wool from sheep and look fluffier (thus are sometimes referred to as “teddy bear” alpacas). Suri alpacas, on the other hand, have smooth fleece that hangs down in long locks and is more silk-like in texture. Huacaya is more common, making up roughly 95% of the alpaca population.

The alpaca market is currently experiencing a boom. According to the Foreign Trade and Tourism Ministry (Mincetur) Peruvian alpaca fiber exports reached US$68.3 million between January and November 2017, up by 110% over the same period in 2016. Alpaca fiber shipments rose 246% in November 2017, totaling US$7 million. This positive result was driven by greater exports to China (390%) and Italy (86%), as well as increased shipments from Inca Tops and Texao Lanas companies.

Alpaca is one of the oldest domesticated animals in the world. In Peru, where 80% of the world’s alpaca fiber comes from, people have been wearing alpaca fiber for hundreds of years. As pointed out in the Daily Beast, alpaca has the power to help the country’s indigenous populations, many of whom suffer from poverty. At least 50,000 families in the Andean highlands rely on herding alpaca for income and to sustain themselves. According to the FAO (based on 2009 data), 85% of Peruvian alpacas are run by smallholders with less than 50 animals each (FAO 2009).

Most alpaca fiber comes from animals that live free-range in their native habitat in the Andes Mountains. Alpaca graze on grass and other foliage. Alpacas are sheared annually, usually in the spring.

Sustainability Considerations

Alpaca are significantly kinder to the environment than sheep or goats, but there is still potential for negative environmental impact

Most alpaca fiber is produced in the alpaca’s native environment, the Andean highlands.
Goats and sheep have hooves which can cause land degradation. Alpaca, on the other hand, have padded feet that are gentle and do not harm the earth.
When alpaca graze, they do not damage or destroy root systems, so land is left undamaged and plants continue growing after an alpaca has eaten it.
Compared to goats and sheep, alpaca require less water and food.
Alpaca fiber does not contain lanolin or grease; therefore it is easy to wash without intensive detergents or chemicals. Chemical baths are not required to remove it.
According to the NRDC, alpaca waste can easily be used as fertilizer. Other life cycle assessments, like the one used for the Higg MSI alpaca example, show that manure and enteric fermentation (livestock belching and passing gas) can account for a significant amount of methane and greenhouse gas emissions, contributing to climate change. Excessive amounts of manure and other toxins entering the ground can also contaminate waterways, making water unsuitable to drink even for livestock and contributing to problems like eutrophication.
Suggestions: Maintain a person relationship with your suppliers to ensure responsible herding practices.

Animal rights can be an issue

For the most part, animal rights are not a big problem when it comes to alpaca production.
Suggestions: Work with suppliers that are transparent, ethical, and conform to the strictest standards of animal welfare, such as those embodied in the IWTO Specifications for Wool Sheep Welfare. Many vegans and organizations like PETA believe any kind of wool means suffering for animals, and encourage avoiding wool completely.

Potential impacts during customer use care

Because alpaca is naturally odor resistant and somewhat stain resistant, it does not require frequent washing. It is also resistant to wrinkling and recovers from wrinkles well, so very little ironing is required.
Alpaca can usually be hand washed or dry cleaned, hand washing has a lower environmental impact. Alpaca is not as delicate as cashmere, but hand washing still requires careful handling to avoid shrinking and shape distortion.
A firm, soft brush (also called a sweater brush) can be used to remove pills and return matted fibers to their original position. Sweater combs and shavers can also be used, but can do more damage to the fibers. Wool knits can stretch on a hanger, and are best stored flat.
Alpaca can be tasty to moths and other insects, and thus is important to keep protected. Cedar is an excellent natural pest repeller, and can be placed around wool garments.
Suggestions: Design for air and hand washing over dry cleaning. Be sure to educate your customers about best consumer care practices. (See Stella McCartney’s video on air drying.) For hand-washing wool, this usually includes: 1) wash less, 2) use cool or slightly warm water, 3) gently squeeze, don’t stretch or agitate the garment, 4) Avoid chlorine bleach and strong detergents, which can discolor or literally dissolve wool. 5) lay flat to dry.

Alpaca is biodegradable, depending on what is added to it

Untreated alpaca fiber is completely biodegradable. Things like dye, toxic chemicals, blended fibers and trims can hinder biodegradability.
Suggestions: Design for optimal biodegradability. Be sure to educate your customers about how to dispose of the product, or even consider a company take-back program so you can re-use or properly dispose of the products you make.

More Sustainable Options

Alpaca is considered a more sustainable fiber, and is often recommended over wool and cashmere.

Look for alpaca that is:

Certified Organic
Certified Fair Trade
Naturally colored
Sustainably grazed
Supports local communities

Fiber Qualities

Natural colors include white, black, and a range of browns and greys.
Alpaca fiber generally grows 8-12 inches in length.
Alpaca fiber is soft and fine, with a nice luster and good draping characteristics.
Fibers from younger alpacas are finer and softer than from older animals.
Alpaca is more difficult to dye than other wools, for this reason natural color is often used (Kadolph)
According to Mara Hoffman, Alpaca lasts longer than most other luxury fibers like wool, cashmere, and silk.
Alpaca fleece has no lanolin, which makes it hypoallergenic and easier and more sustainable to process.
Like wool, alpaca fiber is water repellant and stain repellant.
Like wool it is naturally fire repellant.
Alpaca does not pill as much as wool, and feels less itchy to the wearer.

How It’s Made

In this video, Industry of all Nations walks viewers through the process.

Available Standards & Certifications

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | A Textile Exchange standard, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is recognized as the world’s leading standard for textiles made from organic fibers. GOTS covers textile processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, exportation, importation and distribution. It does not cover the cultivation of the plant, which is covered by governmental organic standards like the USDA Organic. In order to label an article with GOTS, each site along the GOTS supply chain needs to be certified and the product itself needs to contain a minimum amount of 70% organic fiber material.

USDA ORGANIC | Raw natural fibers, such as cotton, wool, and flax are agricultural products and are covered under the NOP crop and livestock production standards – specifically National Organic Program (NOP) Regulation, 7 CFR Part 205. The NOP regulations do not include specific processing or manufacturing standards for textile products, these are covered by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) . However, any textile product produced in full compliance with the NOP regulations may be labeled as NOP certified organic and display the USDA organic seal. The NOP does not restrict the use of the term “organic” in the labeling of textile products that are certified under third-party certification bodies as long as all of the fibers identified as “organic” meet NOP standards. Textile products that are produced in accordance with GOTS may be sold as organic in the U.S. but may not refer to NOP certification or display the USDA organic seal.

OEKO-TEX® | OEKO-TEX® is an independent, third party certifier that offers two certifications for textiles: OEKO-TEX® 100 (for products) and OEKO-TEX® 1000 (for production sites/factories). OEKO-TEX® labels aim to ensure that products pose no risk to human health. These products do not contain allergenic dyestuffs or dyestuffs that for carcinogenic aryl-amines, and several other banned chemicals. The certification includes thorough testing fro a long list of chemicals.

Fairtrade International | Fairtrade is a global movement for change, represented in the United States by Fairtrade America. They certifying social, economic and environmental standards that apply to the full supply chain from the farmers and workers, to the traders and companies bringing the final product to market. They are certified by a third party accredited certification body FLOCERT.

FAIR TRADE USA | Fair Trade USA works closely on the ground with producers and certify transactions between companies and their suppliers to ensure that the people making Fair Trade Certified goods work in safe conditions, protect the environment, build sustainable livelihoods, and earn additional money to empower and uplift their communities. All businesses that work with them are held to rigorous Fair Trade standards, which drive income sustainability, community and individual well-being, empowerment, and environmental stewardship. They certify both cotton growing and cut-and-sew garment manufacture. Unlike Fairtrade, they will certify just one part of the supply chain, which is properly labeled on the consumer-facing label. Instead of working with an existing certification body, Fair Trade USA developed their own standards and compliance criteria. They are certified by a third party accredited certification body SCS Global Services (SCS)

Organizations & Working Groups

Threads of Peru | Threads of Peru is a not-for-profit social enterprise that connects the world to handmade treasures of the Andes, helping to strengthen ancient craft techniques and empower artisans. Threads of Peru seek to revitalize cultural traditions by providing sustainable markets for these incredibly fine textiles.

Pacomarca | Pacomarca “Sustainable Alpaca Network” is an enterprise that aims to the sustainable development of alpaca farming. It seeks to generate benefits for all those involved in the alpaca production chain, and especially for the thousands of rural families who make a living from this resource in the harsh conditions of the Peruvian highlands. In 2011, the research center Pacomarca officially became a part of Inca Tops.

Fiber Guide: Alpaca

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