Those who know Yigal Azrouël personally are aware of his fashion aesthetic – detail, draping and defined construction – and his passion for surfing, travel, nature, art, and photography. That passion always informs the French-Moroccan designer, who was born and raised in Israel, and made his name in New York City when he launched his eponymous fashion label 20 years ago.
On the occasion of the milestone, Azrouël took a moment to look back at the past two decades and his start in business.
“I arrived in New York in the late 1990s and wanted to study architecture,” he recalled. “While I was looking for a job, I started experimenting on my sister’s sewing machine and taught myself how to sew. I went to a local fabric shop where I found a very simple black knit fabric: jersey.”
With the jersey in hand, the designer began draping and ultimately created 10 pieces.
“I also went to flea markets to shop and get inspired by old vintage clothing,” he added. “I would deconstruct them to see how they were made before reconstructing them.”
Through a friend, he was introduced to a multi-brand showroom in 1998 and his collection was picked up by Barneys New York. His first runway show took place in fall 2000. What started with draped fabric evolved to include leather and engineered materials, as well as fabrics he now develops himself.
“I like starting from scratch by finding a yarn and I challenge the mills to come up with something unique – sometimes even mixing several yarns together that have different reactions,” Azrouël explained. “That way, I can bring a new character to the fabric. I am really into fabric that drapes right. All my designs start from the fabric. I still drape first before sketching out a design, allowing the fabric to lead the way.”
When it comes to a favorite collection, he demurred. “I don’t have a favorite collection,” Azrouël said. “Every collection becomes my favorite as I always take what I have created and learned from the past and deconstruct it so it’s a constant evolution.”
The Fall-Winter 2018 collection celebrates 20 years with looks inspired by the designer’s iconic pieces.
“I researched my own archives and modernized pieces that I love,” Azrouël said. “I also created a limited edition capsule collection for the anniversary, which will have a special logo and hangtag. I am planning to commemorate the entire year with interesting collaborations that will be announced in the coming month.”
When it comes to collaborations, he’s no novice. Over two decades, he has collaborated with the Guggenheim Museum and, when approached by choreographer Emery LeCrone, created looks for ballet dancers from the New York City Ballet and the American Ballet Theatre for the museum’s arts series.
Based on his own experiences, he has plenty of advice for emerging talent: “Follow your dream and listen to your heart and passion and be disciplined. It’s important to be open and make your own decisions though also important to choose one direction and master it. I design clothes for women not necessarily by what the trend dictates. While it can inspire, create your own path. You can’t be everything to everyone.”
