When it comes to fabulous vintage fashion, look no further than The Moore Vintage Archive in Philadelphia. Since its opening in 2014, founder Keesean Moore has curated a strong collection of designer vintage womenswear and couture pieces— from around 1890 to 2000. There is no shortage of iconic looks from American legends such as James Galanos, Norma Kamali, Geoffrey Beene, and Bill Blass and international houses such as Hermès, Chanel, and Comme des Garçons. And if those are not enough, check out the amazing Patrick Kelly and Stephen Burrows looks Moore donated to the CFDA: Defining American Style auction at Sotheby’s.
When and how did you discover your love for fashion, and specifically, vintage?
My love for fashion has been a lifelong affair. Things really kicked into high gear after a few internships in fashion publishing that led to a career as a stylist and journalist. I worked for clients like Charles Harbison and Versace Young and had a few of my profiles published including interviews with Thom Browne and Joseph Altuzarra. I also worked as an assistant on editorial and advertising projects for International Vogue, Self, Lucky, Teen Vogue, Interview and many, many more.
In the end, what really inspired me was the importance of the archive in every aspect of contemporary fashion ideation. It became clear to me early on that every notable fashion image and every boundary-pushing design concept begins with a firm understanding and reverence for the past. I decided to commit myself to the procurement, documentation, and preservation of fashion history. It brings me so much joy to work with fashion and costume design teams, creating this full-circle moment where I am now the keeper of the raw materials for innovation and inspiration. Honoring the past in this way feels like important work.
How do you find the pieces for the store?
This career requires a lot of traveling. I always say, “I know what I’m looking for and I’m willing to go wherever I need to go to find it.” Whether it be any of the major vintage and textile tradeshows like A Current Affair and The Manhattan Vintage Show or traveling to France for treasure hunting sprees in the country’s legendary antique markets, I’m always on the move.
I also get my fair share of house calls, which rank among my favorite experiences because I get the stories behind each piece directly from the source. I can’t tell you how many fascinating retellings I’ve heard of fabulous lives lived in 1970s New York City. In as much as I am a curator of fine vintage gems, I am also a steward and keeper of stories and it brings me great joy to be able to share my findings and their accompanying histories with anyone who pays a visit to my shop on Philly’s historic Fabric Row.
What’s been the greatest find? Is there a story behind any of the pieces and how you located them?
I guess my greatest finds are the items that find their ways into my personal closet. Those are the items I can’t seem to part with. While rare pieces by Black American designers like Patrick Kelly, Stephen Burrows and Scott Barrie never fail to make my heart flutter, my current obsession is early 1970s outerwear by the late Issey Miyake. I love seeing (and wearing) what I consider to be the genesis of a kind of design genius. It’s such a gift and a delight to be able to touch and experience the beginnings of design concepts that have ultimately reshaped the fashion world as we know it.
What are customers asking for the most?
Because of my background in styling and fashion journalism, my curation leans toward an editorial sensibility. I love a show-stopping piece, even more so if it’s been documented in some way in print or otherwise. Customers come to me looking for eye-catching design that no one else will have. There’s nothing worse than attending an event and seeing a parade of identical looks. Shopping vintage provides a sustainable and chic path to the best dressed list. It is a reliable way to stand out from the crowd because a majority of the items in the archive are one of a kind.
How difficult/easy is it to find American vintage pieces versus European ones?
I guess it’s easy to find American vintage pieces in America and easy to find European pieces in Europe. The same can be said for the ease of finding outstanding pieces by the Japanese Avant-Garde in Japan. However, what is difficult is finding quality, exceptional vintage in sellable condition – condition is key when it comes to vintage. To find a significant piece of fashion history in excellent condition is truly a rare and special find, as surviving items like this tend to end up in museum collections. I’m told very often that my store feels like a shoppable museum because many of the items I stock are routinely found in institutional archives.
Name three vintage fashion looks that you would love to find for your store.
1. Nina Simone’s crochet ensemble worn at the 1967 Newport Jazz Festival
2. Eunice Johnson’s personal couture acquisitions or any look that graced the runway for the legendary Ebony Fashion Fair
3. Any original costume designed by Ray Aghayan and Bob Mackie – specifically those worn by Barbra Streisand in “Funny Lady” or by Diana Ross as Billie Holiday in ‘’Lady Sings The Blues.’’
