In fashion’s inner sanctum, Floriane de Saint Pierre is considered a power player. Though she’s not a designer or a retailer, the Paris native has been behind for some of the industry’s top hires, including Christopher Bailey at Burberry, Alber Elbaz at Guy Laroche [a move that put the designer on the global map], and Italo Zucchelli at Calvin Klein. The headhunter started her career at Dior, then launched Floriane de Saint Pierre & Associés, her global consulting firm with a focus on strategic organization, human resources and executive search. She also founded Eyes on Talents, the digital platform to connect brands with creatives around the world, which is a partner of CFDA+.

Here, de Saint Pierre tells us about why fashion is changing, what she looks for in a portfolio, and the need to respect product.

CFDA.com: How do you think fashion has changed in the last decade?

Floriane de Saint Pierre: “There is this deep change in society about the notion of consumption and ownership. We see this in the sharing economy. With the ‘Uber-ification’ of the world, what do we really want to own? You don’t need to own your car anymore. You do not need a country house, because of Airbnb. People in France don’t want to own a country house anymore because it means a lot of work and taxes. We see an impact that’s now come to our industry. We have big jewelry brands as clients and in China, for example, you can rent your jewelry. What is really so meaningful that you want to own and keep it?

With the sharing economy, things will evolve to a point where I can rent the latest gown that I know I would never wear twice. But I want to buy the parka to I can travel with that is light with the right pocket and smart with some technology.

Fashion is also no longer about luxury versus non-luxury, but it is about Best-in-Class brands. H & M is best in its category. Moncler is best in its category, and Nike is in its category. Someone who buys something from Proenza Schouler probably also has something from Nike and Apple. These brands reach out to the same creative, and that is super-interesting to me. Look at Kim Jones of Louis Vuitton who is collaborating with Nike, and Olivier Rousteing with H&M and M·A·C. Even if your product is at a different price point, you access the same kind of creative leaders. This has changed. High and low have the same credence.”

CFDA.com: How has the pool of young talent changed in your view?

Floriane de Saint Pierre: “The pool is huge, but the talent pool is more limited. Fashion is a very attractive sector, so there are so many students in fashion. However, if you really think about the ones with a talent to make a difference, there are very few.

We are starting to see more talent with a strong interest in society and the times. It is very important to look to the culture of the past, but I do not think it is useful to do the Thirties mixed with the Eighties, and the Forties mixed with the Nineties. We are in the 21^st Century. We are in a creative, design-thinking period. It’s really time that fashion embraces a design-thinking process and today’s issues and opportunities, which are massive. One billion people travel every year. That’s a massive opportunity to design creatively smart and beautiful garments for them.”

CFDA.com: What are the biggest challenges in fashion right now, and the biggest things that need to be addressed?

Floriane de Saint Pierre: “We need fewer products. We just have too many. We have to apply design-thinking to the whole system, from fashion shows to direct-to-consumer. We have a massive opportunity to go direct-to-consumer and deliver what we can sell. Why have this obligation of seasons? When there are one billion people traveling, you need your swimsuit in the winter and your cashmere in the summer. You need perfectly thought-out product with a strong creative expression.”

CFDA.com: Right, so when you see, say, a Gucci collection with a floral or serpent print, it should not just be a season motif, but presented across seasons.

Floriane de Saint Pierre: “As long as Alessandro Michele feels this print is super-interesting, he should keep it. What is interesting to me is that Gucci has not put its product on sale. That is very smart. I love what he does and bought some shirts. I was very proud that they were not put on sale, because in a way, that diminishes the product. Product and creativity have not been respected. I think that it is time for fewer products that are more respected.”

CFDA.com: When you look at young talents and their portfolios, what is the first thing you look for?

Floriane de Saint Pierre: “The first thing I look at is whether it brings something new and relevant. Is it meaningful today? Does it have an impact, or is it just another product? Sometimes, I would rather not see a portfolio of sketches, but a portfolio of attitude—that shows a concept we need to address.”

CFDA.com: What advice do you have for young designers who want to break into the business?

Floriane de Saint Pierre: “To be very curious, to be strong observers and to be like a sponge; not be close themselves off to the world around them. They have to be very empathic, and listen to what the world feels and needs. The minute the designer is disconnected, you will see the success stalling. Individuality is also very important.”