When beloved Italian eatery Sant Ambroeus landed on Lafayette Street five years ago, it became an instant fashion favorite. There’s no doubt Alireza Niroomand, who had been brought on to open the Soho location, had much to do with it– and that’s not just because he’s one of the most dapper men in New York. Niroomand, who was born in Iran and raised in Paris, has a way to make patrons feel at home with a mix of hospitality and charm that helped create a Sant Ambroeus community of sorts.

Two years ago, he became Creative Director and Brand Ambassador for all Sant Ambroeus Hospitality Group locations, and in that role, he spearheads brand partnerships and collaborations, including memorable ones with Colette, Bobbi Brown, Maison Kitsune, Superga, Oliver Peoples, and, in time for the holiday season, Le Labo, the latter via a chic Santal 26 candle in signature Sant Ambroeus rosa.

Niroomand’s career started as a back waiter for Alain Ducasse, which brought him to New York for Ducasse’s Mix, and then Country with Geoffrey Zakarian. He also worked at Buddha Bar and Bagatelle, and, after becoming a father (he now has three kids), he quit and launched a company that delivered homemade dog food. When Sant Ambroeus reached out about Soho, he jumped at the opportunity.

We caught up with Niroomand about the secret behind the institution’s  success, his idea of a perfect lunch crowd, his favorite dish on the menu, and more.

Sant Ambroeus Soho has become New York’s ultimate fashion cafeteria. What’s the secret?

There is no secret. The brand itself has, for many years, attracted a fashion crowd between the West Village and Madison Avenue. When we opened in Soho, it naturally attracted fashion people because there are so many showrooms in the area, and we were able to maintain them. We made Soho more of a casual, fun place. It’s the most informal Sant Ambroeus there is, and feels more like a living room. We always say “Welcome Home.”

As Creative Director, how do you describe the Sant Ambroeus ethos/philosophy?

There is always a connection between the art and fashion worlds at Sant Ambroeus, which is what attracted me. It became a lifestyle brand and there is a connection with fashion. Sant Ambroeus first opened in in Milan in 1936. There are not a lot of restaurants that can claim such a heritage, and I love that we’re so old, because we’re not trying to be cool. We are not trying to be the hot place. That’s the beauty of Sant Ambroeus. When we opened, we were not pressured to be packed right away. We became an essential, your go-to place, with time.

What do love about the hospitality industry?

It reminds me of my childhood. I really learned hospitality from my parents. I mean, you’re Iranian, you know. I grew up having a home where there were always people around. There was always an open door policy and when there is food for two, there is food for 10.

What makes a perfect Sant Ambroeus Soho lunch or dinner crowd?

The mix is the magic here. It’s very eclectic. You can have Jenna Lyons, for example, and then a famous skateboarder that no one here knows.

I go to all of them. Madison Avenue is the parent of the family. This one [Soho] is the kid. When you walk into the West Village location, you feel like you’re in Milan. This morning, there were only Italians at the bar; the baristas recognize the people, which is so rare in New York. That’s why I think we’re so successful.

Whom would you love to have here who hasn’t yet been?

Obama is one, the other is Banksy although I wouldn’t recognize him. Maybe he’s already been. Daft Punk, who are big idols of mine, came. They didn’t wear the helmets but I still knew who they were.

Do you have any great Sant Ambroeus moments you remember fondly?

I really love Grace Coddington and admire her work. I always get excited when she comes. I remember how, one day, I arrived at the restaurant on a scooter as Grace was walking out. She was looking for a taxi and I jokingly said, “Do you want me to drop you off?” And she said, “Would you?” And I did. I gave her a helmet. She put on her helmet and fixed her lipstick, and off we went.

You have a terrific Instagram account often featuring you in some fabulous coats with the hashtag #thecoatsofsantambroeus. How did you come up with the idea? And what is the criteria to get a coat on you?

It’s funny. I used to work with a friend at Country. It was such a formal place. When we checked peoples’ coats, we would go into the coat check area with a camera, and we’d try on people’s coats and take a picture.

Describe your personal sartorial style.

One of my father’s favorite brands was Daniel Cremieux. When we first opened, the son of Mr. Cremieux came in one night and complimented me on my outfit. After I found out who he was, we started to collaborate. He dressed me and has been my favorite ever since. But I only dress like this at work. On weekends, it’s the complete opposite.

What’s your personal favorite dish on the menu?

I love the eggplant Parmigiana , the Carpaccio, and the Veal Milanese. But my favorite is the Bolognese. It’s classic, comfort food.