The news of Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli exiting Calvin Klein Collection marks the potential beginning of a significant shift in American fashion. Calvin Klein is one of the biggest fashion houses in the world. As a brand, its recognition ranks up there with Coca-Cola and Apple. With the new strategy of one creative vision for the entire brand, the incoming designer (all bets are on Dior and Jil Sander alum Raf Simons) will have more power to help shape the global view of American fashion. In the right hands, that can only be a good thing.
That said, with so many designer moves in the industry, Costa’s and Zucchelli’s next steps are ones to watch. Both have had a remarkable run at Calvin Klein and are much-acclaimed and esteemed CFDA Members. During their decade-plus tenure, they have kept the Calvin Klein name at the forefront of American fashion. Costa fused art and architecture references with established Calvin Klein codes. Seeing his collections up close backstage before the runway show, one couldn’t help but marvel at the innovative materials he used with such seeming effortlessness. His fall 2016 collection was no exception–a brilliant riff on sex with subtle (and not so subtle) S&M references. Costa’s red carpet dazzled too—Lupita Nyong’o’s pearl dress at the 2015 Academy Awards being one of several memorable numbers. Zucchelli, who currently serves on CFDA’s board, brought a different kind of edge to the brand. Showing in Milan, he also embraced new materials and textures with techy and street influences. During New York Fashion Week: Men’s in February, Zucchelli presented a modern take on red carpet dressing.
Costa, a former CFDA board member, has won the CFDA’s Womenswear Designer of the Year Award in 2006 and 2008. Prior to Calvin Klein, he worked with Tom Ford at Gucci and, before that, with Oscar de la Renta. It could actually be quite exciting to see what Costa, who is Brazilian and undeniably has a more playful South American side, could bring to a house like that. Zucchelli, who took home the Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2009, was at Jil Sander before he joined Calvin Klein—both experiences positioning him well for the future. Watch this space!