Reboot and refresh. That’s what is widely expected of Raf Simons, who has been confirmed as Chief Creative Officer of Calvin Klein.
For American fashion, the Belgian designer’s arrival at one of America’s most iconic fashion houses presents a moment of significant opportunity. Simons is one of the fashion world’s most influential designers, who made a mark not just with his own menswear label, but also at Jil Sander and Dior. His arrival is sure to give New York Fashion Week a boost and up every designer’s game. That can only a good thing, especially at this time when the city’s fashion landscape is shifting dramatically – from Peter Copping’s departure at Oscar de la Renta to Jonathan Saunders’ arrival at Diane von Furstenberg, and the ongoing transition at Donna Karan, which saw the founding designer’s exit and her Collection shuttered (though there is talk of resurrecting it with new owners G-III).
Today’s Calvin Klein announcement also marks a shift in strategy in-house, replacing creative directors Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli — who had done a remarkable job – with a singular voice and vision. Simons will lead everything from Calvin Klein Collection to Calvin Klein Platinum, white label, Jeans, Underwear and Home brands. In addition to design, Simons will also oversee Global Marketing, Communications and Visual Creative Services, giving him the kind of control that only Calvin Klein himself once exerted. The move is intended to strengthen the brand’s overall impact, and Simons is considered the right man to do this.
Over the course of my career, I have been fortunate enough to see many Raf Simons runway collections; first, at Jil Sander in Milan, where he gave minimalism a captivating sensuality, and then at Dior, where he viewed house codes through an ultra-modern lens. Simons, the 2014 recipient of the CFDA’s International Award, has the prerequisites for the Calvin job. He has mega-brand experience and is well-versed in minimalism. It will be exciting to see how Simons will interpret American sportswear and incorporate Calvin Klein’s provocative facet into his vision. His first collection for Calvin Klein will be shown for Fall-Winter 2017.
Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein Inc., called the move a “momentous new chapter” for Calvin Klein. “Raf’s exceptional contributions have shaped and modernized fashion as we see it today and, under his direction, Calvin Klein will further solidify its position as a leading global lifestyle brand.”