What makes an exhibition noteworthy? Attendance can certainly make headlines. Scandals will, too. But it’s in looking back that we see the unearthed work that became a part of the canon again, or how dialogue was pivoted in a significant way. Exhibitionism: 50 Years of the Museum at FIT is self-congratulatory (by definition) but makes a fine case that enormous influence has come from the compact museum’s approximately 200-show run.

With selections from 33 of what they consider “the most interesting and influential” exhibitions, the show is visually overwhelming at first; the full experience is like wandering through a sizzle reel for the institution. But with a bit of focus, one understands why they’ve chosen so many highlights, and the significance of each. Paul Poiret, King of Fashion (1976) revived from obscurity the man who killed the corset. Madame Grès: Sphinx of Fashion (2008) was the first show to focus on the woman’s innovations, instead of lauding her classicism. Halston: Absolute Modernism (1991) gave the full stage to the then recently-deceased designer at a time when monographic exhibitions were still unusual. Black Fashion Designers (2016) was the most comprehensive show of its kind, using its breadth to challenged stereotypes. On the other hand, Daphne Guinness (2011) highlighted the outsize influence of one consumer of fashion — co-curated by the iconic woman herself. Hello Again: Recycling for the Real World (1994) was the first major exhibition of any kind to focus on recycled materials. And Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (1989) and Ivy Style (2012) were prescient in their own way: important moments before menswear captured the attention of the wider community.

Looking back may not always feel worthwhile or exciting. It can be distressing to see what progress hasn’t been made. But one feels a certain reassurance, pausing at Elegance in an Age of Crisis (2014). The exhibition focused on 1930s fashions, and how creativity that can emerge and thrive, even in the darkest of times.

Exhibitionism: 50 Years of the Museum at FIT is on view at the Museum at FIT through April 20, 2019.