Victor Glemaud is a familiar face in New York fashion. He’s worked with Patrick Robinson on the designer’s own label as well as at Paco Rabanne, at Tommy Hilfiger, and at KCD, where he worked with such brands as Versace, Marc Jacobs, and Helmut Lang. The Haiti-born designer launched his namesake label in 2008, and made a mark for himself with terrific knitwear designs which led to the 2017 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, for which he was a finalist. To mark Black History Month, we talked to Glemaud about being black in fashion and positive moves the industry can take towards a more diverse future.
As a black fashion executive and designer, what kind of hurdles have you faced in our industry?
As my dear friend Bethann [Hardison] always says, “I am a designer who is black, not a black designer or CEO.” The distinction here is subtle but important. I have worked in fashion – an industry I love – for over 20 years. My first job as intern, and then design assistant to Patrick Robinson, never made me feel like an outsider due to my race. Outside the studio, however, I did not see many people who looked like us in the workrooms, fabrics fairs, or nightclubs I frequented.
Because of my varied experiences, knowledge, and access, I’m very much an insider on paper. The reality is, though, when I walk into a meeting with new people, most do not assume that I am the designer, creative director, or CEO of my business. But I’m an optimist and always look forward. Do I recall every slight I’ve encountered daily throughout my time in this global industry? No. Nevertheless, at the moment, I am fundraising with a proven, profitable, and nimble business with unique, non-traditional brand and marketing models. Many of the people I’ve met with are startled to learn that I – and I alone – had this launch strategy. Hurdles await anyone who is trying something new! However, a growing business with an unconventional model should warrant the same consideration as other fashion houses with executives and designers of other races.
What are some of the suggestions you have for the industry to create positive change?
My suggestion for every design studio, fashion office, atelier, creative, stylist, and photographer: hire people of diverse backgrounds and/or with non-traditional resumés, who have a love for fashion, clothing and images. Untapped talent will introduce fresh perspectives, ideas, and energy. Access, sweetie!
How do you plan on using your platform to bring attention and generate change?
My central focus has always been to inspire through honest, straightforward, and passionate humor. Using my expanding social media platform to share my journey has allowed so many different people from all over the world to interact. Late last year, I was introduced to a local museum and a global foundation and have since begun exploring my hands-on involvement with mentoring NYC public school students in addition to exploring opportunities in Haiti.
My biggest contribution is made through my clothes. If people enjoy wearing my clothes, that is my best, and hopefully long-lasting contribution as it affects perception. Which affects change! Happy Black History Month!
