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Pride

Unapologetic by Design and Loud in Fashion

June 26, 2025

Melquan Ganzy

Pride is an especially important time to amplify queer experiences and wisdom.

We spotlight designers who continue to shape the culture by living unapologetically and speaking boldly through both their work and their voices – affirming queer identity in fashion as legacy, not as a trend.

PRABAL

PRABAL GURUNG

When have you felt silenced, and how has queerness helped you live louder since? What would you say to your younger self now?

I have been silenced more by absence than by command. Not always with words, but with averted eyes. With invitations that never arrived. With conversations that tiptoed around me as if my softness might stain the room. The silencing didn’t just come from the world outside, the rigid, heteronormative systems that saw my queerness as too loud, my brownness as too foreign. It came from within the community too. From spaces carved out for pride, but not for all of us. In rooms of predominantly white, cisgender gay men where desire looked one way, where masculinity was currency, I was told I was too femme, too ethnic, too much.

But you see, queerness gave me a second voice. One that didn’t wait for permission. One that said: You are not their idea of beautiful. You are your own definition of divine.

If I could go back to that boy, the one who danced in secret, who colored outside the lines, who prayed to be less noticeable, I would kneel beside him and say: “Baby, there is nothing louder than truth. Nothing more dazzling than authenticity. And one day, the very things they tried to quiet, your voice, your skin, your flame, will become the light they cannot ignore.”

How does owning your queer identity in fashion feel like building legacy, not just following a trend? And how do you uplift and encourage fellow and emerging designers to lean into their light, power, and resistance?

I do not wear my queerness like a costume. I wear it like a crown, passed down in whispers from the ones who didn’t make it through. Queerness is not fashion. It is folklore. It is ballroom and bindi. Lipstick and lineage. Tenderness as rebellion. But in this industry, I have watched taste used as a weapon. I have seen critics mock what they do not understand, and gatekeepers dismiss anything that doesn’t fit within their narrow idea of beauty.

If it wasn’t burdened by their own colonial heritage, it was shadowed by the lens of it, a lens that worships minimalism but mocks maximalism, that elevates the “chic” but questions the “colorful,” that calls one thing timeless and another thing “too much.” Those microaggressions, the subtle digs, the polite exclusions, the curated invisibility, they are just as loud. And yet, we rise. We rise by designing the world in our own image. We rise by bringing softness into rooms built for steel. We rise by refusing to filter our work through their comfort.

To every emerging designer who has ever been told to edit who they are: You are not a trend. You are tradition and prophecy wrapped in silk and fire. Show up. Stand tall. Speak in sequins or silence, however your truth comes through. Because your very presence is legacy. And legacy doesn’t whisper. It roars.

JONATHAN

JONATHAN COHEN

When have you felt silenced, and how has queerness helped you live louder since? What would you say to your younger self now?

For me, being gay was never the issue, being in the closet was. Not allowing my true self to be seen at a young age made me live in fear, not only of others, but of myself. I wouldn’t even let myself dream of becoming a fashion designer, even though I knew that’s what I wanted, because I was terrified of being perceived as “too different” or “too gay.” Everyone around me knew, but the constant bullying made it feel unsafe to fully admit it — to them or to myself.

That all changed when I finally had the courage to apply to Parsons for fashion. Getting in after dropping out of school was a turning point. Moving to New York and entering the fashion world gave me the community and safety to finally be who I am.

Looking back, I’d tell my younger self: “You’re going to be OK. Be proud of who you are. Don’t be scared — and definitely don’t give a f*ck what anyone thinks of you. You are the brave one.”

How does owning your queer identity in fashion feel like building legacy, not just following a trend? And how do you uplift and encourage fellow and emerging designers to lean into their light, power, and resistance?

Representation matters because it gives people, especially young queer kids, something to believe in. When you see yourself reflected in someone doing what you dream of doing, it gives you hope. Being my full, authentic self in fashion is my way of paying that forward. I hope that by showing up unapologetically, someone like my younger self feels a little less alone, a little more possible.

Sometimes, just existing as your full self is a radical act. And now, more than ever, I lean into the queer community to uplift one another. We need to keep the dialogue open, from creative collaborations to personal conversations because sometimes we are the only ones who truly understand each other. That mutual support is how we build something bigger than ourselves. That’s how we build a legacy.

PRESLEY

PRESLEY OLDHAM

When have you felt silenced, and how has queerness helped you live louder since? What would you say to your younger self now?

I think the only times I can remember feeling silenced are when I had not found my own voice yet. As queer people, we all journey to find our voice and learn how to express ourselves authentically.

I feel like once I found community, I was able to find myself and my voice. I’d reassure my younger self that family takes many forms, and there are bountiful people around who will love you for who you truly are. And to not be afraid to ask for help and support.

How does owning your queer identity in fashion feel like building legacy, not just following a trend? And how do you uplift and encourage fellow and emerging designers to lean into their light, power, and resistance?

Owning your queer identity is synonymous with owning who you truly are, and you can’t build a legacy without authenticity. Embracing all facets of yourself helps build a legacy that is grounded in your true self. Trends are fleeting, but you and your voice are not. My advice for emerging designers is to trust that your creative voice is unique, to create for yourself and not to please others, and don’t hesitate to ask questions (and for help when you need it).

Flag by Getty Images; Gurung, Cohen, Oldham by BFA.com

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