The CFDA + Lexus Fashion* Initiative kicked off in October with 10 brands; Brother Vellies, Dezso by Sara Beltran, Erin Snow, K/LLER Collection, Nicholas K, Prabal Gurung, SVILU, Tome, Wwake, and Zero + Maria Cornejo.
Since then, the finalists have been identifying their challenges, as well as short term and long term goals for the remaining 15 months of the program.
The designers have also been meeting with industry expert mentors, as well as partaking in workshops to help identify how they will move the needle in their businesses in terms of sustainability. For more information on the program, click here.
CFDA.com asked the participating designers to reflect on their latest collection by highlighting their current practices including processes, materials and strategies that relate to positive environmental or social impact.
Prabal Gurung: “Since launch, we’ve felt a professional responsibility to create and produce in a sustainably focused way that empowers our partners and employees, and being a part of the Fashion* Initiative has only strengthened this commitment. We enact best practices by producing in the Garment District in New York, and in Nepal, where all employees are paid fair wages and factories offer transparency. This season, the knits we showcased on the Fall 2016 runway were produced in Nepal– the dyes we use follow Double HO standards, and leftover materials are recycled. The response to our knits has been incredibly positive, and we feel proud to run our business in an ethical and thoughtful way.”
Maria Cornejo, Zero + Maria Cornejo: “In February, we included two sustainable fabrics in the runway collection this season (three fabrics if you count the commercial collection fabric groups): Eco Cashmere Yarn and our Bolivian Knits – both of which maintain our efforts for responsible design and production. The innovative Ninetyfive re-engineered cashmere yarns derive from sophisticated pre-consumer textiles that were never made into products and are carefully and transparently selected. This re-use of untreated, clean, exclusive materials complies with worldwide ecotoxicological standards and clients’ own specifications. An excellent material from a traceable process. Our Alpaca knits are hand knit in Bolivia through our collaboration with a women’s cooperative based in La Paz, Bolivia, which enables women to work from home while supporting themselves and their families. In our commitment to responsible design, we believe in supporting local artisans and women wherever possible. Each knit will be hand signed by the artisan who created the piece.
Additionally, as a part of our continued efforts to maintain sustainable practices in all aspects of our business, the envelopes, invitations and the paper for our show program are 100 percent recycled. The paper for the invitations were handmade and individually screen printed by hand in New York. This information was then shared on our social media account and shared in the show program in an effort to communicate our efforts.”
Katie deGuzman & Michael Miller, K/LLER Collection: “This season for NYFW, we collaborated with Charles Youssef, who produces his collection in the U.S., for his presentation and lookbook. We designed earrings and bracelets inspired by his pleated designs in recycled brass. For our fine collection, we utilized porcupine quills which are byproducts from the farming industry and capped them in recycled gold as well as using all recycled gold for the rest of the components which makes for a 100 percent responsible and ethically sourced product.”
Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin, Tome: “The denim in our latest collection has been sourced in New York City and up-cycled. The completely natural undyed shearling is from Vermont and a direct byproduct of farming. Shirts from our overstock have been resurrected and given new life.”
Nicholas and Christopher Kunz, Nicholas K: “The Fashion*Initiative was a great way to formalize, document and share the collaborative journey of transforming our business. As part of the program we are auditing social compliance of our newer factories through site visits in India and request for compliance documentation. While we realize this will a continuous process of improvement we felt our biggest opportunity was in altering the yarns in our highest volume products. This season we incorporated a Peruvian alpaca yarn which is 100% organic and uses no dyes, into our largest sweater program. Secondly, we will be launching a 100% Organic cotton jersey program with natural dyes as part of our commerce strategy. Additionally efforts include development of compostable packaging and sourcing of trim made from recycled PET.”
Erin Isakov, ERIN SNOW: “For Fall/Winter 16-17 in addition to our existing eco-printing, chemically safe textiles and socially responsible manufacturing, we really pushed to source and utilize some of the most responsibly developed, technologically advanced performance materials along with entirely circularly designed wool sweaters. While this approach is not easy, it has always been our focus and through the Fashion* Initiative programs and contacts we have been able to further our sourcing reach and practices.”
Britt Cosgrove & Marina Polo, SVILU: “The Fashion* Initiative has reinforced our commitment to New York based manufacturing. Keeping it local for Fall 16 we collaborated with our garment district neighbors and pleating experts, Tom’s Sons to create a custom wool blend knife pleated skirt. A family run business since 1931, Tom’s Sons’ knowledge of pleating has been passed down through 5 generations and they continue to work with the best craftspeople in NYC. Once hand pleated the wool check panels were assembled at our factory on 38th street and ready for their close up.”
