Panelists of CFDA Conversation: Sourcing Socially Responsible Artisans.
Timo Rissanen of Parsons School of Design
Annie Millican of Nest
Tara St James of Study NY
Hassan Pierre of MAISON-DE-MODE
Annie Oakley Waterman of AOW Handmade
“From the designer’s point of view, there are a myriad of opportunities when collaborating with artisans,” said Annie Millican of Nest at Wednesday’s CFDA Conversation titled Sourcing Socially Responsible Artisans. The discussion, hosted by Timo Rissanen of Parsons School of Design, aimed to address just how designers can effectively go about artisanal collaborations in a way that is both mindful and beneficial to their business. In addition to Millican, the panelists were Annie Oakley Waterman, founder of AOW Handmade, Hassan Pierre, co-founder of MAISON-DE-MODE, Dana Arbib, CFDA Member and designer of A PEACE TREATY, and Tara St James, founder of Study NY. “Identifying an artisan partner is the optimal scenario [for a designer]. But how do you find that partner?” Annie Millican asked the audience at the CFDA offices. Below are a few tips our panelists gave on how to answer that question, effectively use the resources that artisanal collaborations can provide, and ultimately help develop their product. Read on to learn the top five need-to-know points from Sourcing Socially Responsible Artisans.
“The most success I’ve had is when I show up with an aesthetic but not a finished design,” said St James, stressing the positive affect that an artisanal influence can have over a designers work. “Opening up that dialogue and creating something together is where you’ll find the most [benefit].”
“Lead time is so important. To the best of your abilities, deferring to the lead time set by the artisans you work with is really key,” said Millican. Simply put, having a clear understanding of the production timeline of the artisan(s) you are working with and how that affects your own planning is essential. Pushing for a quicker turnaround may ultimately compromise quality control. St James added to this by touching upon the importance of getting to know the conditions that the artisans are working within. “Understanding what their community is dealing with in their day-to-day is really important.”
“Create a sustainable relationship with an artisans group,” said Oakley Waterman. Panelists agreed that fostering a strong relationship with select artisans is key. Those who have a variety of skillsets and aren’t too specialized in their production leave room for potential when designers develop new collections.
“We do want to encourage brands to [create] a more fluid season,” stressed Pierre.“Most accessories that do well are classic and can be worn year round.” This becomes even more essential when designers are marketing and selling a product globally.
“Have someone on the ground,” said Arbib. She stressed the importance of having a direct line of communication with someone in each select region who can help source artisans and keep you up-to-date. This will also help in deciding when you should travel to those regions and how to effectively plan.