Increasingly, there are brands that produce samples for runway shows and presentations while neglecting the purpose or story of their collection. The focus is no longer just about the actual garments; much has shifted to securing social engagement. But change, however subtle it may still be, is in the air, as more fashion leaders and creatives push to return to authenticity and relatability with brands and collections. The shift manifests itself in a renewed focus on quality, concepts, and storytelling rather than solely depending on social engagement with influencers and entertainers such as musicians and actors.

“It’s essential for designers to find a healthy balance between focusing on the conceptualization of their collections and social engagement,” digital influencer and content creator Taylor Hawkins said.  “Oftentimes, people take an ‘all or nothing’ approach as it pertains to influencers and social media. Although storytelling is essential, we cannot negate the importance of influencers and entertainers as they bring more eyes to the collection. As long as there is a balance, both are necessary.”

Social media strategist and consultant Candace Marie echoed such sentiment. “In today’s landscape, achieving a delicate balance between the quality of a brand’s collections, conceptual integrity, compelling storytelling, and collaborating with individuals of influence is crucial,” Marie said.  “Authenticity and relatability, embodied in high quality designs and narratives, build consumer trust. The brands’ partnerships with influential figures extend reach and enhance cultural relevance. “The key,” she explained, “is a nuanced integration, where designers maintain authenticity through quality offerings and leverage individuals of influence to amplify their message. By aligning with those whose values resonate, fashion leaders can navigate the evolving consumer landscape, ensuring meaningful connections and a contemporary – dynamic brand presence.”

Design and quality should remain paramount. At a time that anyone can become an influencer or celebrity, finding those who align with a brand’s ethos can leverage said brand’s reputation.

“Being fair in budget allocation could help as well,” Hawkins said. “There is no reason why influencers are being paid six figure amounts when the seamstresses and the design team that brought the pieces to fruition are sometimes barely able to pay rent.”

Yet, in recent years, brands have replaced buyers and fashion editors with social media influencers and entertainers at their shows. This fashion practice may have overnight success, it does not necessarily guarantee long term revenue for brands. And more than often, fashion week shows have become overly inclusive with social influencers and entertainers who do not work in fashion.

“It is funny because I made a social media post this past fashion week complaining about this exact issue,” Hawkins said. “As a digital creator, who often focuses on fashion, I do believe that there are usually too many influencers and entertainers in the room, specifically those who are industry adjacent. A good way to combat this issue would be bringing back more ‘well-rounded’ rooms. Brands and publications should prioritize editors, designers, publicists, buyers, etc. just as much as they do influencers. There needs to be people from all aspects of the industry in the room, not just those that are prominent on social media.”

“Many people still hold the dated belief that all publicity is good publicity. They believe that so long as there are eyes on the brand, the pieces will sell,” Hawkins said. “Most of the influencers brands choose to work with have an extensive following so they’re able to kill two birds with one stone: publicity, and social media engagement. However, the target audience is unfortunately not always hit.”

Marie stated, “Whether it’s engagement, reach, sales, etc. – a clear influencer strategy has to be put into place so that swapping out a buyer or publicist makes sense. Brands are pivoting how they are marketing their shows versus having an executive buyer, senior buyer and a junior buyer at a show. It may make sense to just have an executive buyer present and two creatives who are aligned with the brand and can reach an audience immediately.”

If social media crashed tomorrow, social-inclined brands would not survive and prosper for long term revenue success.

Some preventative safeguards, according to Hawkins, include “bringing back traditional methods of publicity. Allowing editors to preview the collection before it goes live. Aligning with stores and buyers that the target demographic typically shops. Hosting real life campaign activations where fashion figures (not limited to influencers) are invited. Even bringing back brick and mortar I believe could set brands up for long-term revenue success.”

“One of the first things that I learned when studying finance was to diversify your portfolio,” Marie said. “This looks like: email marketing, websites, social media, ads, editorial, etc. Social media is just the front line of marketing, so everyone is seeing it.”

Without doubt brands are using social media influencers and entertainers to leverage their brands reputation, while failing to effectively embody inclusivity in campaigns that welcomes otherness throughout the entire year.

“Instead of a desire for short-term visibility and buzz, there should be a strategic alignment with the brand’s identity,” Marie added. “If the collaboration lacks authenticity, it can be seen as opportunistic and superficial. Brands should ensure that partnerships with influencers and entertainers during fashion weeks are thoughtfully curated, reflecting a shared narrative and values, to avoid being seen as performative.”

For 2024, the scope may well extend beyond fashion shows. “I would love brands to support our craftsmanship in collaboration throughout the year,” Hawkins said. “For instance, brands can send the collection specific pieces out to influencers, giving us creative freedom to produce content that expands the collection’s story.”

Besides providing free access to 5 minute fashion shows, “Brands could provide funding or grants to support influencers and entertainers in pursuing their creative projects such as photo shoots, art installations, and other artistic endeavors,” Marie said. “In addition, they should also be flexible in collaboration arrangements, allowing influencers and entertainers to retain creative control while still benefiting from brand support. This flexibility fosters a more collaborative and mutually beneficial relationship.”

Photo Credits:

Taylor Hawkins by Sebastian Melendez

Candace Marie by Lærke Rose Xin Xin Møllegaard