It takes a Rick Owens show to give Paris Metro Line 9 the ultimate cool factor. The designer’s goth fans, invited and not, ascending from the Iena stop for the Palais de Tokyo show space are a sight to behold; his défilés rank as the most edgy and interesting for its crowds and, of course, the fashion.

Owens’s fall-winter 2025 theme, Concordians, reflected the CFDA member’s journeys to the small industrial Italian city of Concordia, where his clothes go from sketch to reality.

According to show notes, Owens noted that to “focus on creating something weird and wonderful,” he and his team depart their respective cosmopolitan cities and decamp to the city that, despite its ancient ruins, runs a bit bleak—think U.S. rust belt towns.

The brutalist bowels of the 1937 World’s Fair exhibition hall, with requisite smoke veiling the room, and David Bowie’s French, English, and German versions of “Heroes” blaring on the sound system, set the tone for the designer’s vision of his man through the lens of a melancholic small-town oddity.

This season, though, there’s  plenty of news, too, from new collabs with Rimowa, and with avant-garde CGI fashion designer Victor Clavelly, the latter for alluring chain-link leather bumster skirts and boots responsibly sourced American alligator pieces. Cozy thermals, sublime suede outerwear fit for an office worker, and new mega creeper boots with a sure grip sole, were perfect for factory stairs. Mais bien sûr, Rick.