On Monday, the CFDA and Studio by Tishman Speyer hosted an engaging conversation featuring Rachel Scott of Diotima and Henry Zankov of Zankov, which was moderated by Jalil Johnson.

The room buzzed with the energy of talented designers and fashion industry enthusiasts. Johnson’s thought-provoking questions steered the discussion beyond the conventional focus on designing collections and preparing for fashion shows.

Scott and Zankov – winners of the American Womenswear and Google Shopping Emerging Designer of the Year at the 2024 CFDA Fashion Awards, respectively – shared valuable insights that inspired attendees to honor their individuality while cultivating self-awareness, embracing growth, fostering community, embodying authenticity, and striving to make a meaningful impact through their creative work.

The atmosphere was one of openness and vulnerability. It felt like a moment of genuine connection between the designers and attendees, and there was a shared consensus that America’s designers are reaching new heights and marking a pivotal shift in the industry.

Scott and Zankov shared reflections from taking on multiple roles to propel their brands forward to navigating their journeys with faith and determination.

This vibrant dialogue highlighted the profound purpose and transformative potential of design in shaping not only the fashion industry but also the world at large.

How would you describe yourselves as designers and the ethos of your work?

Henry Zankov: “Rachel and I started our brands after years of working with other designers, which gave us time to learn about ourselves, not just as creatives but as people. Curiosity and a constant desire to learn have shaped me. It is through these experiences, personal and professional, that I have built my identity and my work as a designer.”

Rachel Scott: “I am not sure if we ever fully know ourselves, we are always evolving. What stays constant is curiosity, an openness to tension, sensuality, and desire. Henry and I talk often about how these ideas manifest in the world and in our work. For me, it is  about staying fluid and curious, always learning from the world around us.”

What lessons from your experiences have shaped your approach to building your brands? 

R.S.: “I did not study fashion traditionally; instead I took a broad approach to education before narrowing into design. My early years in costume design taught me to value craft, down to the smallest detail. Later, working in both luxury and contemporary fashion gave me perspective. In luxury, it is often about imposing a vision. I learned to think about the customer and their needs and their lives. This balance between craft and wearability is central to how I design now.”

H.Z.: “My first job was with Donna Karan, and she taught me the importance of designing for the body, touching fabric, draping, and creating pieces that feel sexy and comfortable. At DVF, I learned about color, sensuality, and the power of storytelling in design. These experiences taught me that good design does not have to start with a rigid sketch; it can evolve from a simple idea into something transformative.”

What does sexiness mean in fashion today?

H.Z.: “It is not about the clothes; it is about how you move through life with grace, confidence, humor, and a little naughtiness. You can be sexy in a mini-skirt or a big black coat, it is all about how you carry yourself.”

R.S.: “Clothes should enhance your sense of self. For example, I work with crystal mesh that molds to the body and moves with you, which is sensual and empowering. But ultimately, the clothes are there to support the confidence and sensuality you already possess.”

Did you always feel destined for fashion, or was there a specific moment or experience that revealed it as your true calling?

H.Z.: “When I was 13, I saw my first fashion show on TV and knew instantly, I turned my bedroom into a store, sketching and pricing pieces. That passion stayed with me, shaping everything I have done since I was a kid.”

R.Z.: “I grew up in Jamaica, where my mom encouraged creativity over boredom. I started hand-embroidering and making clothes in the mango tree for myself because there were no stores to shop at. My obsession with fashion grew from wanting unique outfits for parties as a teenager, and it has not stopped since.”

What does winning the CFDA Award say about the changing fashion landscape?

H.Z.: “It is a sign that people value individuality, craft, and community. There were a lot of great designers in the room. This recognition is not just about us, it is about a new generation of designers with strong, unique voices who are shaping the future of fashion.”

R.S.: “What stood out to me was the sense of community. Everyone who won champions inclusivity, craft, and longevity. It is not about corporate predictability or fleeting trends, for me it is about creating a brand that is meaningful and lasting.”

What does it mean to be a designer in today’s evolving industry?

R.S.: “I have learned to stay true to what I believe in. The world does not need more unnecessary products. Fashion operates within culture, and now more than ever, let’s create pieces that matter and contribute meaningfully to the overall dialogue.”

H.Z.: “Being independent allows us to create authentically without following a rigid plan. It is not always easy to be resilient, we spend more time on logistics than design but our passion and community keep us going. Resilience comes from knowing yourself, trusting your vision, and relying on those around you.”

What role does community play in your success?

R.S.: “Community is everything. I could not do this without my circle of stylists, collaborators, and peers who support and amplify my work. Fashion is not about competition; it is about sharing and lifting each other up.”

H.Z.: “We are lucky to have a community where ideas are celebrated, not feared. Even if we work with the same materials, our voices and vocabularies are so distinct that the results are completely unique. That is the beauty of true collaboration and creative trust.”