New York City has recently proposed a bill that would ban the sale of fur, shearling and hair on calf skin at both the wholesale and retail level. While economists estimate that this will cost 7,500 jobs, the largest question is the attack on the right to use materials of your choice.
The fur industry has long been challenged with questions about sourcing practices and animal welfare. Long before this proposed law, the industry has been working diligently to ensure it is held to the highest animal welfare standards. Since New York City proposed a ban of the sale of all fur items, at wholesale or retail last April, we have been working with the government to educate and explain the real practices of the industry and highly regulated environment we currently work in. It is important to note that this proposed ban, should it take effect, would only be the start of efforts to further limit your use of animal-derived materials, such as leather, cashmere, wool and silk.
Today’s consumers demand to know more about what they are buying. Transparency is the expectation from the food they eat to the clothes they wear. There is a demand to be sustainable, make healthier choices and have a clear understanding of the supply chain behind the products they purchase.
We have been asked many questions about how the industry works by designers and the government officials, and the fur trade welcomes this scrutiny. The international ruling body, the International Fur Federation, has developed an official certification and traceability process, FURMARK, to give consumers the confidence that they are only buying fur from natural and responsible sources. Fur is one of the most sustainable products in the fashion world. Using organic materials is a total contrast and rejection of fast and plastic fashion, which are typically petroleum derived, Fur is slow fashion, treated as an heirloom purchase and lasts for generations.
Customers want to know that animal welfare has been a priority. This is why FURMARK is based on scientific evidence, with full independent inspections to ensure the highest standards are enforced. Inspectors look in detail at all aspects of the farm – from the food, water and day-to-day care of the animal’s life. Wild fur is only permissible from conservation programs – all of which are managed under strict guidelines.
The IFF welcomes the discussions on fur as we share Speaker Johnson’s bold vision to ensure strict animal welfare standards. However, his proposal for a total fur ban is not the solution. It is not the job of politicians to deny New Yorkers the freedom of choice to decide what they buy or limit materials which designers may work in. Fur is popular in NYC – from increasing sales in the Garment District, the many NYC-based trade shows, brand showrooms and retail stores. Fur is used in whole or in part by many major brands, even designers that have dropped fur still use shearling and hair-on calf skin. Popular brands as Fendi and Canada Goose are experiencing impressive growth. As the fashion capital of the world, a New York City ban would result in businesses shutting down, job losses and another negative impact on the historic Garment District.
The fur industry encourages New York City to be the first city in the world to adopt FURMARK. This would send a strong message of support for animal welfare and at the same time allow freedom of choice for New Yorkers. Fur under the FURMARK program is the sustainable, natural and responsible choice. I hope Speaker Johnson takes this opportunity to work with the fur trade to make this important change.
Make no doubt about it, if fur were to be banned, there is a long list of other commonly used fashion materials that would follow. Leather, cashmere, wool, crocodile, and even silk are materials that the animal rights activists would like to see eliminated. We urge all to consider strict regulation and adopt a strict regulatory standard for not only the fur industry, but all materials. More information can be found at wearefur.com or you may contact the IFF for additional information.
Mark Oaten is CEO of the International Fur Federation. Oaten joined the IFF in 2011 with a remit to represent national fur trade associations and organisations from across 40 countries.
Editor’s Note: The views expressed in this feature article are those of the author.
