The talk, moderated by The Cut Editor in Chief Lindsay Peoples, centered on themes of starting a fashion business, developing a unique philosophy, the importance of creativity, and more.
Here, some highlights.
On Fashion Vision
Thom Browne: It is never at the expense of creativity. That has been really my mission. It’s as simple as that. Nothing really important ever happens, especially in fashion, without pure creativity.
Paul Smith: When I started in 1970, you could have an idea in your head and your heart and you designed it and hoped somebody would like it. Now of course there’s social media…so many brands now set off with all the technology…but it’s really just from the heart. You do what you do.
On Longevity
T.B.: The most important thing is that you stay true to yourself. We do different things, but the thing that is so fundamental to us is that we are so true to ourselves. It almost makes it so easy if you know so much less than the world knows. For me, it’s just beautiful, interesting, and maybe a little weird.
P.S.: Just keep your feet on the ground. You need to know what other people are doing so you know what not to do, and don’t clutter your head with too much information. That’s the danger of social media because we’re so bombarded with information. Just do your own thing.
On Similarities & Differences
P.S: We are very different in many ways, but there’s an affection there…right from those very early days in the Meatpacking District to brushes in hotels in Paris and just saying “Hi.”
T.B.: You probably don’t realize this, but for me, I can’t believe this is happening. I remember moving to New York after graduating college and going into your store on Lower Fifth Avenue and thinking, I never knew that this existed. It was that type of connection. You were such a pioneer; you really reinvented the idea of how men could dress, how they could take chances, and how they could be individuals. And it really was something that stuck with me.
P.S.: Thank you. It goes back to what we said earlier, which is sticking to your goals and saying, “this is what I do” and showing your character through how you put things together.
On Regrets
T.B.: I don’t regret any of them, and I take every risk possible. With every collection and everything I put in front of people, it is our job to make sure that people see something different. And if we’re not scaring ourselves, then I think we’re not doing our job.
P.S.: I mean the world is so different. The world is such a small place now. When I first started, my wife and I went to Paris because Paris was different to London, and Milan was different to Paris and London. And now, every street in every town are all the same guys. And that’s why I to try and be different and do your own thing. We need surprises because the world is just so similar all the time and there’s a lot less joy than there used to be. We need some more joy.
On Success
T.B.: The first five years of my collection, they laughed at me on the street. They didn’t understand what I was doing. They didn’t understand why they were buying it. The clothes looked like they didn’t fit. The reality of doing something that very bravely takes a lot. I’m not saying don’t try; I would hope that if you want to do it, then go for it, but be realistic.
P.S.: I still work in the store on this Saturday, which I love doing. The wage is rubbish [laughter]. I was pinning the trousers of this gentleman and he was standing there with his wife. He said, “Do you remember Jack?” And she said, “Oh yeah, Jack, Jack. Apparently Jack knows Paul Smith. He supposed to be a nice guy.”
On the Mindset For Success
T.B.: I think the only realization is that it’s going to take a long time. If you think it’s going to happen overnight or that you’re going to be rich, it probably isn’t going to happen. But if you love doing it more than anything else in the world, and you couldn’t think of doing anything other than designing, then commit to it and create beautiful things. The gauge of success should be doing something that you love more than anything else in the world.
P.S.: We are all in a rush now for some reason now. In sports, a manager of a football team gets three months and if they don’t succeed in three months, they get fired, which is ridiculous. Camaraderie and teamwork takes time to build, and learning takes time. Take a breath and just get on with it.
My business was so slow for years. We had a tiny little shop and took in hardly any money at all…but it was just great. I just loved it. My first manager of my shop was a dog [laughter]. My first cash register was a cigarette box and the first day we opened, we sold 35 English pounds. My wife bought everything just to please me.
