Norma Kamali on her Most Iconic Looks
May 26, 2016
Marc Karimzadeh







The Parachute Dress: Photographed by Mark Seliger and featured in “Impact: 50 Years of the CFDA,” 2012.
Sleeping Bag Coats: Christy Turlington, photographed by Arthur Elgort, American Vogue, September 1990.
Sweats: The Norma Kamali Collection, 1981
The Farrah Fawcett Poster, photographed by Bruce McBroom, 1976.
Active: Photographed by Patrick Demachelier, British Vogue, May 1983.
Dance: Twyla Tharp's “In the Upper Room” Poster, photographed by Richard Avedon, 1986.
Fringe: Iman in Vogue Italia, photographed by Barry Lategan, 1977.
Jersey: Norma Kamali X Antonio Lopez, 1986.
Studs: Linda Evangelista, photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, British Vogue, May 1990.
To say that Norma Kamali’s impact on fashion has been (and continues to be) momentous would be an understatement. During a career that is nearing five decades, Kamali, the 2016 recipient of the CFDA’s Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award, has, like few other American designers, shifted the eye in womenswear. Through her innovations, she has significantly added to the fashion lexicon—think Parachute Dress, Sleeping Bag Coat, Sweats (long before athleisure was a word) and Dance.
Here, Kamali reflects on some of her most memorable looks, including the impetus for the Parachute designs and that iconic Farah Fawcett poster featuring her red swimsuit.
THE PARACHUTE DRESS
“Victor Hugo, Halston’s collaborator and window dresser, was a frequent visitor to my Madison Avenue store a block away from Halston’s shop. Halston had the cover of Time Magazine with a swimsuit that looked like one of mine. WWD did a cover story with a photo of both side by side. Victor told me he owed me one, and invited me to Halston’s house when Halston was away. Victor asked me to sit on a round ottoman which was placed just below the balcony of the floor above. Victor dropped the parachute and said, ‘This is my gift to you.’ It was a pretty fab gift that I have had so much fun designing through all of the many years since. Yes, and I made Victor a jumpsuit.”
THE SLEEPING BAG COAT
“I was camping with my best buddy Bob Currie in the early ‘70s and it was freezing cold one night. As I wrapped my sleeping bag around me to venture out to find the perfect bathroom in the woods, Bob and I looked at each other and said, ‘Oh yeah a coat!’ I came back to the City and immediately cut it up not wasting one piece of the sleeping bag. I turned it into a coat and for a few years continued to use actual sleeping bags. I learned the basic concept of ultimate temperature control for the coat. By creating two coats and stitching them together with insulate type fiberfill you create a vacuum in between. That air pocket is where the cold from outside exchanges with the warm air expelled from your body heat. Hence, you are always warm.”
SWEATS
“As I was doing a collection of swimwear in 1978-79, I decided to do sweatshirts as swim cover-ups. I wore a gray Army Navy store sweatshirt whenever I went swimming. It was perfect; it absorbed water and kept me warm. I also love the feel and the color gray with a tan. So my plan was just for swim, but within a few days, I had 36 styles from tops to jumpsuits and even dresses to evening gowns. It was one of those highlight mega-highs designers experience though the creative experience. I knew it should be well-priced and that I needed to partner with a mega-watt pro company to make it reach a broader market than I was reaching.
The entire collection was under $200 and it presented a casual way to dress for all aspects of life, from weekend to evening. I am happy to say it is still very much the attitude of the lifestyle today.”
SWIMWEAR
“I love designing and making patterns for swimwear. My initial goal was to become a painter. I was so influenced by Michelangelo and his ability to create the movement of muscle and form on frescos or in marble. I studied anatomy for years and lived to draw subtle movements and gestures. Then I realized I could draw the human form with clothes draped over the body and do fashion illustration. When I actually started, I realized, as a result of the revolution of the Sixties, that creating clothing could be even more fun. The favorite for me has always been swimwear and active clothing. I have been so happy to see so many fantastic women wearing my clothing especially my swimwear.”
THAT FARAH FAWCETT POSTER
“Farah Fawcett was a customer and had lots of my swimwear. I had no idea she was doing a poster. From what I can remember, as she relayed the story to me, she happened to have my red suit in her bag, put it on, and did the shot. It is fantastic that the suit is memorialized in the Smithsonian, but I am realistic and truly understand it was her smile and her fresh all-American beauty that made that poster such a hit. She could have worn any suit and it would have been as amazing. Anyway, I am grateful for the honor.”