Is there anything Eli Russell Linnetz doesn’t do? Speaking to the designer via Zoom from Los Angeles, it certainly begs the question. He appears impossibly calm while sitting among images from the campaign for his new childrenswear collection – one he designed, produced, styled, and shot himself.

If you don’t recognize the name from his clothing line, ERL, it likely seems familiar from one of his countless other creative projects. He has directed music videos for Ye (the artist formerly known as Kanye West), co-produced a Kid Cudi album, wrote songs for Teyana Taylor, and designed stages for Lady Gaga. Just earlier this month, he became the first person to ever rework Bergdorf Goodman’s facade in the retailer’s history. He even got his start as a child actor.

In 2018, his work as a photographer led him to shoot a campaign for a new Comme des Garçons fragrance, where he met its president, Rei Kawakubo’s husband Adrian Joffe. The two ended up working on a collaboration together, which launched to great success – and thus, ERL was born. His line still operates under the Dover Street Market umbrella.

Linnetz represents a new wave of fashion talent that cares little about playing by the rules and is increasingly hard to define. The collection’s best-selling graphic hoodies and bright corduroy pieces are as representative of the brand as the giant quilted cape that A$AP Rocky donned to the 2021 MET Gala. With the lighthearted energy only a true Californian could possess, Linnetz seems content with growing the world of ERL at his own pace and on his own terms.

To celebrate his CFDA American Emerging Designer of the Year Award nomination, we got a rare glimpse into the designer’s studio in Venice to learn more about the emerging talent.

Congratulations on your CFDA Award nomination! What was your reaction and how did you celebrate?

I was getting Rocky dressed for the Met Gala, and found out just as we were putting the final touches on his outfit. It was an overwhelming moment of ecstasy. I didn’t really process it till later that night. I’m not one to celebrate. The next day I started sketching what I was going to wear to the CFDA awards.

When did you realize you wanted to pursue a career in fashion?

I really didn’t have a choice. It was the perfect escape when I needed it most. I didn’t have all the skills or tools I needed to start. But I had something I wanted to express. That desire leads to a career.

What’s your fashion philosophy today?

I don’t think too far into the future. I focus on the textures and colors that bring me happiness.

Are there any people that have played a key role in your journey?

I always surrounded myself with people that inspired me. My family always gave me freedom to express myself. That was invaluable.

What are you looking forward to the most at this year’s CFDA Fashion Awards? 

I’m excited to spend a night with my friends.

What’s something you hope to change about the fashion industry?

More chaos. Less rules.

What is something you hope to accomplish in your career? Where do you want to take the brand looking forward?

ERL is very different than a lot of the big brands out there with tons of funding and giant teams. It’s still just me sitting in my Venice studio creating in my little world. What more could I want? I hope nothing changes.

How does your Venice, CA upbringing influence your design aesthetic?

Venice is far away from all those big fashion giants. In Venice, there are no rules. I often just walk the streets bare foot in my boxers and no one questions it. It’s about finding things on the side of the road and living free. Laid back and no stress.

You’re truly a multi-hyphenate creative. How does your fashion intersect with photography and your other creative pursuits? Do they influence one another?

Everything I create is under one roof. I have this great compound of sorts in Venice where everything is happening next to everything else. It feels pure and organic. An authentic way to create. my studio has become my little playground. Where magical things just seem to emerge.

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