It’s been over a month and a half since the Smithsonian’s National Portrait Gallery unveiled the official portraits of President Barack Obama and Michelle Obama—his by Kehinde Wiley and hers by Amy Sherald, with the former First Lady looking resplendent in a Milly gown, featuring a halter-neck top and full skirt with just the right amount of pattern play. A few weeks may have passed, but Milly designer Michelle Smith’s excitement remains. We asked Smith about the cotton poplin design, her initial reaction to the portrait, and more.
What does it mean to you?
Mrs. Obama wearing my design in her official portrait means everything to me and is by far my proudest moment! I am humbled to have created this special piece for such an influential, inspirational woman who shares so many of my beliefs. I’ve always looked up to Mrs. Obama as a smart, compassionate and accomplished individual who is supporting equality across gender, race and sexual orientation. She has motivated me to design with a purpose and to continue using my platform to inspire others to speak up for what they believe in.
Did you know that she would wear Milly?
I worked with Mrs. Obama’s stylist, Meredith Koop, about a year and a half ago to custom design the dress, and I later received confirmation that she would likely be wearing it in the portraits. I was told to keep this news quiet, and as time passed and I became immersed in designing and running my business, the portrait slipped my mind! I was in Paris just after New York Fashion Week for Premiere Vision when the portrait was unveiled and I received the news. Although I knew this moment was coming, it was hard to believe until I saw it with my own eyes. It was the most amazing feeling to see this come to life!
Why was this design so perfect for her?
The dress perfectly reflects Mrs. Obama’s confident, bold and approachable character. Portrait artist Amy Sherald gravitated towards the minimal, geometric print because it reminded her of The Quilts of Gees Bend, which is such a beautiful reference. The women of Gees Bend were slaves and the descendants of slaves, who created gorgeous quilts from cotton fabric scraps. The quilts are their own works of art, and it’s wonderful that Mrs. Obama can represent strong women and how far we have come in such a powerful way.
Mrs. Obama’s portrait gown is loosely based off of a silhouette from my Spring ‘17 runway collection, which was called Love Knot. The collection was about the desire for equality, and feeling like we’re not quite there yet. I expressed this emotion and desire through the use of knots and ties and laces found in almost every piece which was sent down the runway. For Mrs. Obama’s portrait dress, I used the same cotton poplin fabric from the runway, and updated the silhouette with a partially covered back bodice and lacing detail, a dramatic, bias draped skirt with pockets, and a bow sash as the final touch. The dress shows Mrs. Obama’s stunning shoulders and arms, which I think is ground breaking for a presidential portrait.
What was your first reaction when you saw the portrait?
It took my breath away! Through her portrait, Mrs. Obama will continue to encourage future generations to achieve their dreams. The fact that I had the privilege of creating such a special piece for a fiercely intelligent, graceful and inspiring woman will forever by the greatest accomplishment of my career as a designer. The Obama presidency will live on through these portraits, and I am so grateful and honored to be personally connected to their legacy.