Our recent study with Glamour Magazine indicated that there are significant gender disparities at all levels of the fashion industry. Witness the majority of womenswear labels headed by male designers. Save for a few exceptions, the same is the case for menswear, which is also mostly designed by men.
This reality inspired us to speak to the female designers at New York Fashion Week: Men’s about what it’s like to be a woman in this sector and what the female perspective can bring to menswear.
Katie Golinczak is making her NYFW: Men’s debut with SWONNE, which has a focus on denim. “With menswear, I was drawn to the deep-rooted practicality and elegance of each piece of clothing, something I felt that womenswear didn’t really have at the time,” Golinczak said, when asked why she decided to get into menswear. “Tailored details, functional pockets, inspiring trims and thoughtful details…I started to question the contents of my own wardrobe. Why, as a woman, am I destined to own jeans with inefficient pockets? Jackets with no interior details? Why does menswear possess all these interesting details? For me, menswear was and continues to be about expression of functionality and lasting comfort that only gets better with time.”
Designer Feng Chen Wang loves menswear because it allows to better express her personality. “It’s very natural to me,” she said. “I enjoy working on men’s details and establishing materials. Silhouettes and styling for menswear attract me, and that why I enjoying wearing men’s clothes, even though I am a female. I believe that the clothes can be unisex; any man or women can wear them.”
For some female designers, their unique perspective brings a new voice to the category – Emily Adams Bode of Bode and Maria Kazakova of Jahnkoy are prime examples of this.
“Designing from a woman’s perspective,” Golinczak said, “I want to dress men to look the most attractive to their partners and give men confidence, style and elegance— all factors that interest women. As a woman, I understand that and how impressive a man’s attire can be. My Mother always says that ‘You can tell a man by his shoes.” This always stuck with me, and since then I gave much attention to how men dress.”
These women behind some of the most exciting menswear labels today bring a new take that helps push forward their respective field, and are shining examples of just why the menswear industry needs more female designers.
