The Black In Jewelry Coalition (BIJC) is a membership organization that creates and provides opportunities and resources for Black professionals and allies to network, receive grants, scholarships and to attend various industry events and trade shows.

Malyia McNaughton, BIJC’s chairman and founder of her own namesake jewelry brand, Made By Malyia, is creating pipelines of succession for the next generation of industry professionals through the coalition’s Future Jewelers Program.

Get to know the work coming out of the organization, as well as everything to keep an eye out for in the near future.

How did starting the BIJC come about, and what are the goals for the coalition?

During the social awakening that happened in the summer of 2020, many people in the jewelry industry were trying to find ways to end systemic racism and improve diversity and inclusion. After having many calls about the change needed in the industry, a group of nine of us formed the Black in Jewelry Coalition. The first international non-profit membership association dedicated to the inclusion and advancement of Black professionals within the gem, jewelry, and watch industry.

Our initiatives are focused on education, raising the visibility of emerging designers/retailers, and increasing representation across the trade and among consumers.

Can you share some of the council’s previous work and projects in the space?

Together By Design began in 2021 and showcases love and creativity in the bridal sector. A panel of judges selects the couple and then their love story is transformed into an engagement ring that is created by the winning jewelry designer from the jewelry design competition portion of the contest.

JA jointly developed the EJAP with BIJC, it’s a series of interactive workshops to provide a cohort of new retail jewelry entrepreneurs with a deeper understanding of how to build and maintain a successful business in the jewelry industry. This program was sponsored by the JCK Industry Fund in 2024.

BIJC created the Future Jewelers Academy to reach aspiring jewelry designers early in high school, and even expose this potential career path to students who may not have considered it. In 2024 the program began at Brooklyn Steam Center and is now expanding.

Can you describe some challenges in the jewelry category that is important to highlight, and what specific areas are in most need?

The jewelry industry presents significant challenges, particularly in terms of entry barriers, access to capital, education, and representation. Traditionally, it has been dominated by multigenerational brands that benefit from time and experience to navigate economic fluctuations. In contrast, our designers are first-generation and self-funded, possessing the creativity consumers crave but lacking the visibility and resources to expand their reach. Jewelry is a capital-intensive business, requiring substantial startup funds and connections with key partners to access markets. We have initiatives such as Together By Design competition, EJAP Program, and Scholarships that help bridge these gaps by providing grants and reducing educational costs. These programs are a great start but more channels are needed for securing capital.

What are some things you wish people knew about jewelry design?

Jewelry design is an art form that deserves greater recognition. Like other artists, jewelry designers blend creativity, inventiveness, and engineering to bring ideas to life. Jewelry isn’t just decorative; it’s a powerful form of self-expression, often carrying deep personal and cultural significance. From heirlooms to engagement rings, the pieces we wear tell our stories, and jewelry designers are the architects of these narratives.

What do you think the future of jewelry design is?

The future of jewelry design lies in the convergence of customization, versatility, and technological innovation. As consumers increasingly seek unique ways to express their individuality, the demand for jewelry that can be personalized and adapted to different styles and occasions will grow. This shift reflects a deeper desire for pieces that are not just accessories but extensions of personal identity—jewelry that tells a story unique to the wearer.

We are on the cusp of a new era where consumers will play a more active role in the design process, pushing the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship. The rise of digital tools and platforms will empower individuals to collaborate with designers, co-create bespoke pieces, and experiment with new forms and materials. This democratization of design will challenge conventional norms, making jewelry a more interactive and immersive art form.

Furthermore, technological advancements such as 3D printing, augmented reality, and sustainable materials will revolutionize the industry. 3D printing will enable intricate, previously unimaginable designs, while augmented reality will allow customers to visualize and tailor pieces before they are even made. Sustainability will also play a critical role, as consumers increasingly demand ethical and environmentally friendly options.

In essence, the future of jewelry design is a blend of art, technology, and personal expression. It’s an exciting time, where the lines between designer and wearer blur, and where innovation opens new possibilities for what jewelry can be.

What other things can people look forward to coming out of the BIJC?

With the support of others in the jewelry industry and beyond, we will continue to build pipelines and provide the necessary tools for long-term success in a traditionally multi-generational industry. Initiatives like ours help to remove barriers to entry, making the fine jewelry space more accessible and inclusive.