Ever wonder how a model makes it down the runway during New York Fashion Week or into the pages of a magazine?

Ricky Michiels could have had something to do with it. The casting agent is an integral part of the process that pushes forward new faces for Steve Madden, Vogue Italia, Christopher John Rogers, and more.

After cutting his teeth doing bookings for several fashion publications, Michiels is carving out a name for himself as a key player in shaping new beauty standards and fighting for representation – both as a casting agent and the founder of his own management agency.

We caught up with the rising talent to hear more about his path to success, how COVID-19 has shaped fashion, and how he fights for of diversity and inclusion.

How did you get involved in fashion? Was this always an industry you wanted to work in?

I never thought I’d end up working in fashion. I originally studied Biochemistry in college (I wanted to be an orthodontist) but after I took a History of Photography class my junior year, I decided to major in fine art which then led me to apply for a graphic design job on NYLON’s digital team. Turns out I was terrible at graphic design, but I was nonetheless grateful to be working at a magazine I used to tear pages from to tape up on my bedroom walls all throughout high school.

How did you begin your work in casting, and what drew you to this sector of the industry? 

Despite my lack of design skills, I stayed on board at NYLON for two more years. However, I then began to feel restless sitting at a desk and staring at a computer screen all day. I wanted the work I was doing to be more tangible. I wanted to be on set and meet the photographers and help make these editorials come to life.  I wanted to do everything! So, when I heard that the current producer was quitting, I cornered the creative director in the hallway on her way back from the bathroom and begged her to interview me for the job. Since the magazine didn’t have a designated bookings editor, casting became something I had to learn to do as part of my new role as a producer.

You’ve had experience working for some top fashion publications like NYLON, V Magazine, and CR Fashion Book. What did you learn from your time at these companies that helped you before going out on your own? 

Getting to sit in on and be an active part of editorial meetings helped me find my voice in this industry. I learned that I, too, can have ideas and opinions that are valid and creative, and every company that I’ve worked for since has helped me cultivate them in some capacity. I also learned that I would never be satisfied working for anyone else but myself.

At what point did you also decide to launch your own agency, and why? 

After a few years producing, I began to feel myself burning out. I’d leave the office after midnight to be the first person back behind their desk the next morning. It was a thankless job filled with constant stress that left me with little to no time for life outside of work. The last straw for me was when my mother passed. It put a lot of things into perspective and I felt like I needed a fresh start. I quit my last full-time job and got a part-time counter position at a local bakery down the street from my apartment. I knew that casting was my favorite part of any job I had previously held and decided to pick up a few freelance casting projects while I figured out my next move. After a few weeks, I could no longer picture myself working for another company doing another job my heart wasn’t fully committed to, so I figured that if there was ever a time to go at it on my own, this was it.

What do you enjoy about working in both casting and management respectively? 

Doing both casting and management, I get to see both points of view – that of the clients and that of the models.

In casting, I love helping bring a client’s vision to life. Each shoot is like a different puzzle. You start with references and bigger picture specs – your first two pieces. Then, it’s my job to help complete it by finding the last piece missing – the model(s).

In management, I love having the opportunity to help talent represent themselves in the best possible way – not only as models, but as well-rounded human beings with many other things to offer. To be able to quite literally change someone’s life, or at least present them with opportunities they didn’t even know where within reach, is something really special to me.

Although I make no promises, I only sign talent I truly believe in. Nonetheless, not everyone shares your vision right away, so it’s nice to be able to help influence that through my casting.

What do you look for when scouting new talent for a project, or someone you are looking to represent? 

When scouting new talent for projects, it’s important that I keep both the clients and creative for said projects in mind. I need to always consider who they are, what they’re about, and what makes the most sense for them. However, I also always try to think about where they can improve and push their boundaries further.

When it comes to scouting new talent to represent, it really comes down to two things: firstly (and obviously), your features, and, secondly, but not least important, your personality. I like to see what makes them, them, who they are, what they like, what they stand for. I look for talent that aspires to represent something bigger than just themselves.

What is the most challenging part of your job? 

Getting clients to open up.

How has your job changed as a result of COVID-19? 

COVID-19 has changed this industry as a whole for better or worse. Personally speaking, it’s urged me to be more resourceful and innovative about how I cast and scout, but I’ve also seen it give many clients a much needed push to start opening up. With something as basic as traveling now being so restricted, clients have to be open to meeting other talents they may have previously overlooked.

This pandemic has also encouraged a lot of people to rethink our priorities. Now more than ever, people want something they can relate to, something that accurately represents the times we’re living in instead of just another unrealistic portrayal of another unreachable standard.

Your work always seems to feature a wide range of diverse talent and faces. Has diversity and inclusion always been a central focus for you? 

I think a lot of that comes from the people I choose to work with. I like to work with clients and creatives whose vision aligns with mine. To me, being inclusive and diverse should be natural and organic to whoever I am casting for, not a token request or a box on a check-list I have to fulfill.

How do you push for this when working with clients? 

Of course each client or brand has a different identity and, therefore, a different idea of who can best represent them. It’s my job as their casting director to take that idea, interpret it, and do all I can to help them achieve their best version of it.

I still often find that many commercial clients are afraid to take chances or really push their boundaries and, in trying to keep them happy, it’s easy for the casting process to sometimes become more production heavy and less creative.

In these situations, it’s important I remind them of the fact that they approached me to cast their project and not the other way around.

When I present my casting decks, I am presenting my own take and perspective on the project based off of all the talent available, so it is crucial to me that the client respects and understands that the same way I do their ideas.

Looking back, what are some of your career highlights? 

Producing and casting my first ever issue of NYLON and seeing my name on a masthead for the first time is definitely at the top for me, casting Christopher John Rogers’ first runway show would have to come next. Also, Aweng’s photo by Renell Medrano we did for 10 Men Magazine— people still bring that picture up to me when I meet them. Steve Madden collaborating exclusively with my agency for their Pre-Fall 2020 campaign definitely has to be up there, too. The list goes on… There have been so many highlights for me this far, and I hope many more to come!

What advice would you give to someone looking to break into the industry? 

Surround yourself with like-minded individuals whose values you align with and who support you and your ideas. Never compromise on your beliefs and always be yourself. Also, don’t be afraid to cold email. None of this would be possible if I hadn’t.

rickymichiels.com

@rickymichiels