It’s been a season of celebration for Maria Cornejo. Not only did the designer show one of her best collections during New York Fashion Week this past September, but the spring 2018 lineup also marks a major milestone, the 20th anniversary of her Zero + Maria Cornejo label. But that’s not all. The designer also published Maria Cornejo: Zero 1997-2017+ with Rizzoli – a beautiful book devoted to her oeuvre, from inspiration to realization with exclusive photos by her husband and fashion photographer Mark Borthwick with sketches, Polaroids, fit notes and runway shots, as well as tributes by Tim Blanks, Nicole Phelps, and Jerry Stafford.
“It’s a very exciting time and I can’t believe we are here already,” Cornejo said. “Twenty years is a long time! I wanted to create this book because it was important to me that the early years were documented properly. Those were the days before the internet as it is now and a formative time for me to come into my own as a designer.”
Born in Chile but mostly raised in England, Cornejo started her career with Richmond Cornejo before developing an namesake line and creatively consulting retailers including Joseph, Tehen and Jigsaw. She and her family relocated to New York in 1996, and two years later, she launched the Zero atelier on NoLita.
“The early days were the building blocks and it’s fun to look back on that time and feel re-inspired by it,” Cornejo noted. “I felt like I needed to have that time period stretching into now archived somewhere where it all lived in one place because no one really sees everything from those days. I always joke that people can stop asking me about the history of Zero + Maria Cornejo. I can refer them to the book!”
Joking aside, Cornejo conceded she had more serious goals, showing her design process and inspiration among them. “I was adamant that sketches and photos of fittings were included to show the development of an idea and how it comes into reality,” she recalled. “I didn’t want it just to be a pretty picture of the final garment. I also wanted to show the intimate side of the company. It’s more than a business to me and, over the years, everyone involved has become like family. I wanted that to be documented in this book as well.”
Readers will find it to be a tome to Cornejo’s sartorial ethos – simplicity, ease and freedom being at its core. That sentiment shines through the book’s visuals.
“I love all the images that my husband, Mark Borthwick, took of the women who participated in our 15th Anniversary,” she said. “No one has seen these images and they are so special because each woman is photographed in her own piece of clothing. Cindy Sherman’s photo is one of my favorites because it’s a portrait of her with her pet parrot.”
Sherman is just one devotee of the designer and her work. Over the past two decades, other fans have included Tilda Swinton and Christy Turlington, as well as First Lady Michelle Obama. In fact, when asked about her favorite memorable moments, Cornejo cited her 2014 participation in the First Lady’s inaugural Fashion Education Workshop in Washington, D.C., which she attended with fellow CFDA Members such as Diane von Furstenberg, Narciso Rodriguez, and Jason Wu.
Working on the book was enlightening on many levels. “I learned that it’s a team effort,” she said. “What started as a very family project has grown over the years into an extended family of sorts and everyone did their part to make this book come to life. It made me appreciative of everyone who has helped along the way.
“I hope that readers will have more insight into the archives and early days along with my process and inspiration,’ she added. “I love that you can see the fittings photos and how the draping turns into a finished garment.”
With such experience under her belt, Cornejo has a clear idea of challenges and benefits in the fashion world. The cons: “The pace is really exhausting which isn’t my favorite. It’s tough when you are a juggling a family and navigating through all the collections and schedules. I learned that you have to stay true to yourself and go at your own pace.” The pros: “One of my many favorite parts is how many incredible women I get to meet doing this. When someone I admire wears the clothing, that’s the greatest feeling.”
And she has some advice for young talent: “Stay true to yourself and work for others before starting your own business.”
As for the next two decades, Cornejo hopes to open more stores and perhaps add a home collection to her lineup. But, she added, there is one area she is currently especially passionate.
“Right now, I’m mainly focused on pushing ourselves forward on the sustainability front,” she said. “We started from a good place and now I am really interested in how we can keep evolving.”
