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CFDA IMPACT

Making My Mark: Omar Bailey

March 23, 2023

Karyl J. Truesdale

Omar Bailey at the Yeezy Innovation Lab. (Photo by Megan Jolley)

Bronx- born, Florida-raised Omar Bailey had a dream. Named “the shoe guy” in art school, who knew that his sketch book of sneaker designs would evolve into the businessman he is today? He did! Bailey manifested his dreams and transformed them into notability and prominence! From a teen, he laid the blueprint brick by brick, building a future path that led to Yeezy Innovation Lab at Adidas and, then, his FCTRY LAb in the Arts District of Los Angeles. Bailey, who admits to owning at least 500 pairs of sneakers,  is not a self-proclaimed “sneakerhead” by a long shot! It is his love, passion and fervor for shoes that keeps him trailblazing to innovate and bring his vision to the world of shoe design. Bailey is altruistic by nature and creating opportunities for others is his majesty. And he’s just getting started. Most recently, FCTRY LAb wrapped its activation at All Star Weekend in Utah and received some high profile industry support around the first prototype, Knight RNR, out this month and sold out in its first few hours.

Photos by Thomas Welch

You are an industrial design engineer with over two decades of expertise. Were sneakers always a passion or happenstance?

100 percent! You have to have the passion to get through the rough times. It’s what keeps you going. There are definitely more bad days than good ones. The want and the will and the passion to accomplish something that you most desire is what gets you through to the other side.

Define your interpretation of a “sneakerhead.”

People have always assumed that I was a sneakerhead because I was in the shoe business. I have my favorites but I am not a walking encyclopedia on sneakers, or well-versed on the history thereof like some of these sneaker sellers in their early teens. The way I would define a sneakerhead is someone who is truly tapped into the culture of footwear, sneakers, and its history. Most sneakerheads, from what I’ve gathered, can ultimately be defined as “Nike-heads.” Nike is pretty much all that they are collecting whether it is different versions of “Dunks,” “Air Force 1s,” or “Air Jordans.”

Your former role as Head of Yeezy Adidas Innovation Lab was unstinting, life-changing, and one of prominence. How would you describe it?

Unpredictable, exciting, and a rollercoaster ride!

How important was it for you to leave “Big Sneaker” and launch your own innovation lab?

I have always been in the private sector and worked for myself. I have been an entrepreneur throughout my entire career trajectory and by nature, that passage is what has always worked for me and my artistic personality. Upon completion of my degree, I took on a handful of internship opportunities and then, in 2006, decided to start my own company. That’s pretty much how I got started as an entrepreneur. Fast forward, and 15 years later, I accepted this stint at Adidas for Yeezy, and in the three years I assumed the role, I was locked in a corporate environment. Stepping away from “Big Sneaker” was always my goal; to get back into working for myself after Yeezy. I love to relish and seize opportunities, yet I am a realist by reminding myself that fortuity is not going to last forever. There is always a clock that is ticking, and it is my responsibility to maximize it as much as possible, and that is exactly how I looked at Yeezy. The minute that Kanye gave me the thumbs up and brought me on board, the clock started ticking. It was always my intention to go there and learn, listen, absorb, and bring my best to the table, but leave with something greater to call into action.

Why did you decide to launch FCTRY LAb in Los Angeles?

Before Yeezy, I was living in India and working as a Creative Director for an Italian brand with their base and factory there. I was designing, creating and running the lab, accommodating a client base in India and the Gulf regions. I was there for three years, but needed a change. I had a brief hiatus before the Yeezy job and meeting Kanye for the first time, and in that period, I started to put together plans for an Innovation Lab. It was unbelievable to me how I was mastering a plan to create the exact thing Yeezy Adidas called me in to wager for them. They literally laid it right in front of me! I had a blank canvas in front of me for the most popular brand in the world.

FCTRY LAb is a democratized footwear innovation and exploration lab where designers, brands, entertainers, celebrities, and athletes can come to empower themselves or build out collections of shoes to take into the market. The reason why a tool like this is so important and doesn’t exist on U.S. soil is because building shoes is difficult. As technology, materials and processes have evolved and the way that production has shifted overseas with the majority in Asia, it became a lost art here in the States. I respect the sneaker customizers, but it is very different from building a shoe from scratch. The outpouring of support from my peers and others concur that this is long overdue in being able to push the boundaries on innovation and design and actually bring a shoe to life. Factories serve one purpose overseas – to scale and produce. What we have here at FCTRY LAb is something special and you do not get these same opportunities overseas. True innovation and magic happens on the factory level.

As an industrial design engineer, were economics and efficiency always at the forefront, or sustainability and technology in producing new innovative ideas at FCTRY LAb?

My first trip to Asia touring the factories truly ignited a spark in me. A lightbulb went off and it made me excited about what I was experiencing. I thought the end-all, be-all was design and everything started and ended there. I quickly learned that that was the very, very tip of the iceberg. There is a whole other machine that happens below the surface to bring these products to life. It’s supply chains, vendors, relationships, budgeting, and planning, coordinating between multiple orders of different brands. You learn very quickly that big shoe companies do not own factories though I think it’s something that is automatically assumed. Nike and Adidas do not own factories; they use them as commodities.

Upon this discovery, I made the transition from designer to product engineer and became fascinated with the entire process. Today, I look at products from all angles – from design to construction and production and how to incorporate sustainability and other applications into the footwear. I believe innovation is more than what the eye can see. It embodies form, shape, structure, and reinforcement. My approach with entering a new project is thinking beyond the design and how else this product can be created to be truly unique and built from the inside out.

Omar Bailey (Photo by Carlos Acosta)

Where do you foresee the company’s direction in the next five years? Will AI be involved?

I see a future where there will be multiple FCTRY LAbs popping up around the country and, dare I say, around the world. I also think and believe we will get into domestic manufacturing in the U.S. I could see a FCTRY specifically set up to accommodate more simplistic methods of production. I’m not speaking of the robot method – just focusing on the simplicity of production methods via humans versus methods that require high amounts of labor. We’re focused on how we take what we have and what we can do and build within a simplistic, sustainable framework that can still output high quality products at scale.

Artificial Intelligence (AI) is very interesting, and I am not exactly sure how that will fit into our future just yet, but I am open to opportunity if and when it presents itself.

How have you illustrated and managed success at this juncture in your career?

The way I define success is staying the course, believing in yourself, and blazing your own trail. No matter how bad the bad moments are when they come, it makes the good moments worth it. That’s what success is about. Apply it and sustain it. Denzel Washington has a quote that sticks with me: “You got to do what you got to go, so you can do what you want to do.” It is important for me to genuinely live by that. If you can stay the course no matter how rocky or bumpy it gets, that for me is also success. It will come in big ways, small ways, and medium-sized ways along the way and those are the things that will keep you going to the bigger successes! I have not reached my apex, but I am learning to celebrate moments a bit more and to reflect on the things that are happening. I am not completely surprised by where I am today, to be totally honest. Kanye has a line in one of his song lyrics: “Before I had it, I closed my eyes and imagined it.” That’s what I’ve done. I’ve been dreaming of this. Practice makes perfect, and I have been practicing for these moments for a very long time.

If you could describe yourself in one word, what would it be?

Resilient.

 

IG: @fctrylab

WEB: www.fctry.com/collections/knightrnr

FCTRY LAb
Making My Mark
Omar Bailey

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