Many are quick to dismiss clothing as materialistic, shallow, trivial. Meanwhile, others bask in its allowance of creativity and self-expression. How do you perceive it? Is there a line where it crosses over to the ‘dark side’?
I believe in a very expansive view of fashion, and I don’t think the impulse to decorate oneself is shallow or trivial. I am interested in all kinds of fashion—how private school kids customize their uniforms, how trans kids look amazing with no money, how trends and ideas drift up from the street and onto the runways, rather than the other way around.
You studied sociology at Fordham before switching to art history, and then political economy as a graduate student at The New School – never fashion, nor journalism. Where did you find your voice? Pun unintended.
Well I was not a very good student, regardless of the field. The only thing I was ever any good at was writing—and I am one of the few writers I know of who actually likes writing.
Alongside being an acclaimed editor, journalist and Vogue contributor (presented with this year’s CFDA Media Award in Honor of Eugenia Sheppard), you’re also a street style icon. How have you seen today’s street-style movement alter the fashion landscape?
I don’t know really, I have always dressed like this, long before there was street style or social media or even the internet. I don’t really understand people who dress up for cameras—I dress like this even when I am taking out the trash.
What about the media landscape? How have you found the relationship between fashion and media to have shifted throughout the digital age?
Everything has changed, but I think it’s good. Now everyone can see fashion shows on the internet five minutes after they happen, and everyone can weigh in with his or her opinion, and I think that’s pretty great.
How would you like to see the industry change, if at all?
Easy question—more diverse please! More inclusive! Really mean it when you say you are open to all kinds of fashion and beauty.
Lastly, can you describe your most recent purchase in excruciating detail?
Ok well, there is currently the case of the two Balenciaga bags bought on Yoox—the Paris souvenir one from last season and the blanket flower one from the year before. Now what do I do? Keep them both? (I am the queen of the serious markdown.) Oh, and there is also a Simone Rocha skirt in the mail arriving shortly…