There’s a tenderness that’s been percolating at the men’s shows in recent seasons, as suiting turns soft and pastel. For Fall 2020, Kenneth Nicholson juxtaposed the new beautification of menswear with an element of physicality.
Two boxers opened the show. They were masculine, muscular, and covered in glitter-flecked body paint from top to toe. And one by one, models drifted around the pair of pugilists, who continued to throw feint jabs and punches in the middle of the runway. Backstage, Nicholson explained it was his way of finding beauty in the tough moments. “This season, it’s about things that don’t seem like they would go together existing in harmony,” he said. “I’m a big softie, so everything I do is going to have some romance behind it.”
Since launching his namesake label in 2016, Nicholson has continued to push the envelope with each new season. Whether by weaving in bold prints and bright colors, introducing denim into his lineup, or as with his Fall 2020 outing, making his first foray into womenswear.
Indeed, he’s a designer who works hard to push himself technically, although those bias-cut skirts looked effortless as they came down the catwalk. A standout was a trumpet style trimmed with thick crystal fringe that audibly swished as the model walked by.
The men’s clothes here also blurred the boundaries between classic menswear tailoring and the elegant flourishes more often found in womenswear. A textured suit with slightly flared trousers, bejeweled buttons, and sharp, diagonal lines was layered with an open-weave shirt with a zigzag pattern; the same knitwork appeared on a crochet dress with sleeves that ran past the fingertips.
The incongruously paired looks were refreshingly unexpected and showcased Nicholson’s impressive range. A white lace polo was coupled with a red velvet vest with ruffles along the edges. Another floral shirt with elaborate finishes, like velvet-wrapped buttons and matching front pockets, topped a pair of palazzo pants in purple gingham cinched with a polka-dot ribbon belt.
New (and old) romantics will be enchanted by the genteel styles and go-your-own-way attitude.
New York Fashion Week: Men’s was made possible with the generous support of Reebok.
