Togolese-born, and Chicago-raised Jacques Agbobly is a textile Artist artist and Designer designer who recently graduated with a BFA from Parsons School of Design. As a recipient of a 2019 CFDA Scholarship, they have since launched their career with made-to-order knitwear label, Black Boy Knits.
In celebration of 25 years of CFDA Scholarships, we sat down with Agbobly to catch up about what they’re up to these days and how the CFDA Scholarship shaped their career to date and their experience with the CFDA Scholarship.
Jacques, it’s great to speak with you. Can you tell us more about what got you interested in pursuing fashion?
While growing up in Togo, I spent a lot of time living with my grandmother who rented out part of her home to tailors and seamstresses. After school, I would sneak inside of their work rooms and hide under the table to observe while they created beautiful garments from brightly colored textiles. I remember seeing the joy and excitement that overcame the clients expressions while they tried on their custom garments. At a young age, I realized that I wanted to be a part of influencing those emotions. When my family immigrated to the U.S. in 2007, adults would often ask me what I wanted to be when I grew up. My answer was always “Fashion Designer,” which led to people actually supporting my dream by listening, advising, and steering me onto the path of receiving my fashion education in New York City!
What would you say was the biggest lesson you learned during your fashion education? How did it impact you?
I believe the biggest lesson I embraced during my education was to rest my mind and body more and develop healthier methods of working so that I don’t burn myself out. Being a first-generation college student within my family, I put an insurmountable amount of pressure on myself to succeed and excel in everything that I do. I was always working multiple jobs within and outside of school, on top of pulling all-nighters most of the week for my schoolwork. Looking back, I did not fully understand until after I graduated how trying to reach an unattainable level of perfection affected me mentally and physically.
What was the scholarship application process like for you? Were there any memorable moments that stand out?
The application process was really interesting and taught me a lot about the importance of presentation. I was always very focused on the general making and creating portion of fashion. However, the process allowed me to put as much effort into the presentation and visually organize my work. Some of the most memorable parts during this process for me was presenting in front of the panel of judges and meeting the other finalists. The opportunity to present my work in front of an esteemed panel of designers and people in fashion that I have always admired is an experience I will always cherish. I was really nervous at first, but those nerves calmed as soon as I entered the room.
How would you say receiving the scholarship helped your studies?
As a first-generation student who comes from a low-income family, I typically worked three jobs almost every semester since freshman year so that I could afford school tuition, fashion materials, food, transportation, and living expenses in NYC. Unfortunately, the majority of Black and Brown students going to a private institution for college find themselves within these situations. It’s often really hard to compete alongside the other wealthy students that have the financial capabilities, support, and opportunities to afford school and living in NYC, because they can fully focus solely on their design work. Between being a full-time student and working numerous jobs, I barely had any time to do the work and execute it at a high standard. Receiving the scholarship towards my final year of undergrad gave me the opportunity to experience more freedom so that I could focus on my design work, expand, and develop necessary skills and hone in my design identity.
Tell us a bit more about Black Boy Knits and the inspiration behind the brand. How do you hope people will feel while wearing your creations?
Black Boy Knits (BBK) is an independent design studio which emphasizes Black, queer, and immigrant narratives, while highlighting their impact within culture on a global perspective. As a design studio, BBK centers on creating unique pieces on a made-to-order basis.
After graduating at the height of the pandemic and witnessing all of the violence that Black folks were enduring put an immeasurable toll on my mental, emotional, and physical health. Not having the ability to be there for one another and hold each other through the trying times was extremely disheartening. I was able to channel all of that energy into creating and falling in love with fashion again which led me to launch Black Boy Knits.
I am first motivated by the feeling of joy and hope that through making these custom orders I am able to inspire this feeling and make people feel good about themselves.
Having opportunities that were lined up post-grad fall through was extremely disheartening. I needed to get myself out of that headspace and to remind myself why I love fashion. I love creating textiles and I often use the process of making as a way to reset. Graduating at the height of the pandemic in 2020 put an immeasurable toll on my mental, emotional, and physical health. I had a lot of dreams, hopes, and opportunities lined up for me post-graduation which unfortunately, did not come to fruition. As someone who is always creating and designing, not having access or the necessary tools to do my work for a couple months forced me to take a step back and think more about the quality of my work. It also forced me to take some time to decide about what I want to put into the world as a designer.
I have always been drawn to the idea of custom– made garments because that is how I was introduced to fashion. This is something that is custom and is affordable back home in Togo. This element of fashion allows people to feel joy.
What sort of impact do you hope to leave in the fashion world?
As I solidify my footing in this industry my hope is that I will be able to garner the support and resources that I need in order to achieve my fullest potential. There aren’t ’s not many of us that who receive the recognition for what we contribute to the industry. As I continue to create and move forward, I want to make sure I am also able to support other Black creatives do the same. Community is a big part of what I do and it is important to me to be able to support other people. This is the impact I want to create in the fashion world.
What’s next for you? Is there anything you’re working on now that you’re particularly excited about?
My main focus at the moment is Black Boy Knits. I am having so much fun knitting custom orders for my customers, learning more about the business management side of fashion, and figuring out my own standards for quality. I am also in the early development stage for a full collection and excited to present it to the world when it is fully finished! I have been learning how to operate and business while simultaneously working on multiple projects which has been incredibly rewarding. However, I am also seeking mentorship and residency opportunities that will aid in furthering my creative and professional development.
Contribute to the future of American Fashion by donating to CFDA’s Scholarship Fund here.
