The 2018/19 International Woolmark Prize New York semi-final took place Thursday, and the U.S. winners were CFDA members Brandon Maxwell and Nicole and Michael Colovos of Colovos, as well as menswear designer Willy Chavarria, who shows at New York Fashion Week: Men’s. They were joined by winner Marina Afonina for Australian brand Albus Lumen.
They were selected in New York by a panel of judges including Gabriela Hearst, the winner of the 2016/2017 International Woolmark Prize; W Magazine’s Stefano Tonchi; Carfrae Consulting’s Malcolm Carfrae; Hudson’s Bay & The Room’s Tyler Franch; Diet Prada’s Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler; Ordre.com’s Kirsten Lock; The Woolmark Company’s Michelle Lee; GQ’s Jim Moore, and CFDA’s Steven Kolb.
Hearst said it was difficult to choose the winner because of the high caliber of talent. “What really impressed me, beyond design and innovation, was how many designers have sustainability at the core of their brand,” she said.
The other judges also lauded the designers’ level of technical research and development, and the way in which each incorporated their own natural heritage and culture.
Maxwell’s winning concept was inspired by country clubbers, sailors, yachters, golfers and power walkers (or those whose workout regime begins and ends with a glass of champagne). With innovative knitting technology, the wool garments will look good anywhere.
Maxwell conceded that wool is not something he knew much about, but after months of studying, “It means that we now get to do something in our company that we have been dreaming about.”
The Colovos duo looked to chic vintage tennis, archery and cycling uniforms as well as the early-1930s and -40s workwear to inform the entry’s concept. The resulting collection nodded at classic wool sportswear and workwear rendered in modern proportions, patterning techniques and lightweight, seasonless wools.
Michael Colovos said that he and his wife Nicole are “super honored” to win this award. She added that together, they “are excited to be able to bring this collection concept to life.
Workwear and futurism guided Willy Chavarria, who worked with The Bear Scouts and the Suedwolle Group in Germany to source the best sustainable yarns and suppliers. His Futurismo concept collection centered around body map base layer garments destined for athletic and leisure wear – including an oversized woven zip hoodie teamed with knitted pants.
Albus Lumen used Australian Merino wool for her all-white Para Interna-titled capsule concept. The labe’s designer mixed the wool with linen and silk blend for small-scale quilted and textural effects.
The New York winners, who are among 12 global finalists selected here and in Hong Kong and London, each receive $52,000 towards their business and capsule collection, as well as mentoring. Over the next seven mobth, they will develop a capsule of six looks in Merino wool.
“The exceptional quality demonstrated by this year’s designers not only reinforces the strength of the award but also proves Australian wool’s relevance on the global stage,” said The Woolmark Company Managing Director Stuart McCullough. “Wool’s inherent benefits combined with its eco-credentials provide designers with countless possibilities and I am excited to see what innovative designs are showcased at the global final next year.”
Next up? The global finals in London in February 2019, where each will showcase the capsule and vie for the grand prize as well as the Innovation Award. Good luck to all!
