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PRIDE

Inside Express Yourself: An Evening Celebrating Pride

June 22, 2023

Melquan Ganzy

Daniella Kallmeyer, LaQuan Smith, Sarah Burke, Christian Cowan, Becca McCharen, and Steven Kolb.

We Accept Ourselves, Respect Us For Who We Are.

If there was an overarching message at Express Yourself: An Evening Celebrating Pride hosted by the CFDA and American Express, it was just that.

Introduced by CFDA CEO Steven Kolb and moderated by Sarah Burke, Editor-in-Chief of Them, the panel featured designers LaQuan Smith, Christian Cowan, Becca McCharen, and Daniella Kallmeyer, who shared a common interest to advocate for queer people who look like them.

These designers were able to feel what each other was feeling and they were able to understand how each of them chose to respond, especially to America’s need to turn back the clocks of homophobia.

“There are companies that have backed away from Pride Month but we are here,” Kolb stated.

Smith, Cowan, McCharen, and Kallmeyer are living with triumphant mindsets demanding respect that also applies to their craft, storytelling, and brand.

The DNA of the LaQuan Smith brand is unapologetically sexy and glamorous. Smith’s impact in fashion and how he sees fashion derives from women around him. “I have always been in love with fashion,” he told the audience at the 74Wythe venue in Williamsburg. “I grew up in a household with my mother and grandmother who were stylish for church services and even work.”

Smith’s beginnings in fashion design did not start at Fashion Institute of Technology or Parsons School of Design. “I was rejected from fashion schools in New York City,” he recalled. “But I used the rejection as motivation to start my own brand.” Though Smith lacked access to resources and knowledge in the business of fashion, he navigated his way through the competitive industry. “I knew I had talent and fire to bring to the industry,” he explained. “At one point, my brand was a woman’s kept secret.”

Smith mentioned how he passed out pieces from collections like rappers who passed out free mixtapes to promote their music.

A view of the Express Yourself Pride capsule collection by the four designers.

Similar to Smith, Cowan had no idea what to do to become a fashion designer; he fell into it. “I did not know how to sew,” he said. “I was terrible in fashion school, I nearly got kicked out multiple times.” But Cowan did not stop there. He continued pouring into the craft which ultimately birthed his eponymous brand. “My brand is for ‘look at me’ type of people who want and love to be seen,” Cowan stated.

His adolescence in Cambridge, United Kingdom, shaped how his brand lives in popular culture.

“I was an unhappy teenager in a very restricted environment,” he said. “I discovered fashion online and through my female relatives.”

Today, Cowan can say that one of his biggest fashion idols, Lady Gaga, was the first woman to wear his brand. Cowan manifested what he wanted to create and shared stories that encourage the youth to feel an urge to amplify their voices. As he put it, “People believe the fight is over, but it’s not.”

After walking into stores that did not welcome plus sizes and queer people, McCharen began to sew while studying architecture. “When I learned how to sew, I changed how I felt about my own body,” McCharen stated. “It was not my body that needed to change, instead it was the clothes. I realized being able to alter my clothes made me much more confident than before.”

Over time, McCharen introduced Chromat swimwear with nods to her architectural way. “We always use plus sized models and trans people in addition to individuals of other shapes and sizes,” McCharen stated. “Our ethos for Chromat focuses on all bodies.”

For Kallmeyer, dress and presentation have always been a part of her vision, even as an adolescent who competed as a figure skater. “I grew up with some fabulous matriarchs in my family, who were very inspirational to how I saw myself and how I presented myself to others,” Kallmeyer stated.

Before coming out and moving to New York City, Kallmeyer desired to be a part of fashion but did not quite see it for herself. In high school, she remembers being surrounded by affluence which she did not experience at home. When Kallmeyer’s classmates were purchasing designer dresses, she was making her own prom dress.

Kallmeyer reimagines what suits look like for queer women as she defines that sexiness does not require the male gaze. She creates suits that make women feel empowered to be themselves, to be taken seriously, and to be sexy.

When aligning her brand with queer brand representation, Kallmeyer was told not to put herself in a pigeon hole. Yet it is safe to say that she did not restrict her vision as queer celebrities and influencers purchase her brand.

If we are true to ourselves, we know that homophobia will never die. As we continue to empathize with each other, we will understand there is no need for validation to be accepted by the world as we can only live for ourselves.

Photos by Theo Wargo/Getty Images for American Express & CFDA

Becca McCharen
Christian Cowan
Daniella Kallmeyer
Express Yourself
LaQuan Smith
pride
Sarah Burke
steven kolb

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