Matthew Adams Dolan proudly holds up the design that “started everything” – an oversized indigo trucker jacket. This very denim jacket has become one of his signature pieces and serves as the foundation on which Dolan solidified his place as an exciting emerging designer in New York.

A piece from 2014 Parsons MFA graduate collection was noticed by i-D Magazine’s fashion director Alistair McKimm, and later ended up on the cover for its 2015  music issue featuring Rihanna. It put the young designer on the fashion radar.

There couldn’t have been a better way for Dolan to make his debut. While the designer considers the artist a style icon (and now a frequent collaborator), he also cites Jackie Kennedy Onassis as a source of inspiration – describing her as the “pinnacle of American style at the time.” Rihanna, a certified global superstar, holds a similar position as a fashion icon in her own right.

Dolan’s talent lies in his ability to reinvigorate classic workwear in updated silhouettes that retain a sense of familiarity with a hint of nostalgia. Textiles play a large role in this – which explains his affection for denim. A fabric with deep American roots and strong historical significance, the material is a staple in each collection regardless of the season.

“Easy American sportswear” is how Dolan described his label as he walked me through his studio jam-packed with racks of neon suits from his most recent runway show. Tables are covered with fabric swatches and patterns. In the corner lies his inspiration – a mood board filled with images vintage Ralph Lauren and Banana Republic campaigns that show models in bright polos and cargo pants; an homage to great American style.

“I’ve always been interested in American fashion,” Dolan said. “It’s always been something that felt quite effortless and relatable this idea of American style really developed out of something that was approachable and democratic and born out of something that made them feel comfortable. I think that’s what defines the idea of American style, and that’s what I’m interested in exploring.”

Born in Boston but raised between Japan and Australia, his deep regard for American style is a return to roots. Dolan is now ready for the next stage in his career – building a business that he hopes one day could reach the scale of American fashion icons he looks up to.

“I think it’s been really important in changing the way American fashion has looked,” he said. “We’ve seen this new generation of American designers come up and created big businesses themselves. I think it’s about getting support from the CFDA and Vogue, the exposure, and receiving that mentorship from these people that are at the highest levels of the industry in the U.S. that’s really important as a means of growing the business.”

Dolan is ready for the challenge. “There’s a renewed energy in the past few years with younger designers there were the ‘new generation’ of fashion, and now they have become these big companies,” he said. “There’s support and encouragement for younger brands. The CFDA has been so great about that with their mentorship programs. This is how the future gets shaped. It’s an exciting time.”

For our full interview with the 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist, check out our Question Time Series exclusively on our IGTV Channel.