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In the Studio with Jonathan Cohen

October 24, 2018

Nicky Campbell

In the heart of the Lower East Side, and up a particularly steep flight of stairs inside an unsuspecting building on the Bowery is Jonathan Cohen’s studio. The vibrant prints and bright floral dresses, for which the designer is known, bring a sense of life and energy into the loft.

The designer describes his collection as the perfect mix of “elegant, subversive, and artistic” – as in a melting pot of his culture and experiences. Cohen draws upon the vibrancy of his native Mexico City, his eclectic upbringing in San Diego, and the energy of his current base New York.

 

JC Studio

 

“Everything in life inspires me,” he said, walking me through the studio. “Women inspire me. I can get inspiration from a song or trash on the street. It’s something I can’t really explain. Something always triggers something and makes me want to tell a story about it.”

Not exactly a newcomer, Cohen started his eponymous line in 2011 after working as an assistant to Patricia Field, and, later, as an apprentice to Oscar de la Renta. Cohen recalled Field’s environment as “liberating” and “expressive,” while he fondly remembered de la Renta as an “incredible man.” His takeaway? ”You can be beyond the peak of your career and 40 years into his business and still remain this humble great person.  I think that’s a lesson everyone can learn.”

With great encouragement from his friends and peers, Cohen decided to venture into the industry on his own. Seven years in, Cohen has tirelessly worked to garner brand recognition, a loyal fan base of celebrity clients, and a roster of high-end stores with his effortlessly chic designs.

Everything in life inspires me. I can get inspiration from a song or trash on the street. Something always triggers something and makes me want to tell a story about it

However, like any new business, Cohen is not immune to growing pains.

“Sarah [Leff, his business partner] and I started it together, and the two us doing everything and not having more hands has been a struggle for us,” Cohen admitted. “If we had more people we could do more. But that being said I think we’ve done a good job.”

Cohen is now looking to the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund to help take his business to the next level.

“When we were discussing our business, we had laid out a really strong foundation on our own, and we had reached a point where we really felt that with the mentorship, we could really grow it further and go in a great direction,” said Cohen.

He’s not taking his place as a 2018 finalist for granted. Cohen still remembers getting the call CFDA President and CEO Steven Kolb, and going into a “state of shock.” “I wasn’t sure if in his mind he thought I wasn’t excited, but I was really just overwhelmed and surprised,” he recalled. “I didn’t really know how to react and it was after I hung up the phone we all started crying. It was a really special moment.”

Along the way, his biggest Fashion Fund lesson to date came from Anna Wintour.

Inside Jonathan Cohen’s Studio.

Inside Jonathan Cohen’s Studio.

Inside Jonathan Cohen’s Studio.

“She came to the studio and while we were discussing a situation, she told me, ‘The only one who could have the answer to that is yourself,’” Cohen recalled. “It’s like the advice you hear when you’re little. Just believe in yourself and follow your heart. After all the advice we get, that’s what I keep coming back to. Trust those instincts; it’s gotten us to this point.”

For our full interview with the 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist, check out our Question Time Series exclusively on our IGTV Channel.

PHOTOS BY ALDO ARAUJO

2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund
CVFF15
Jonathan Cohen

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