A sense of heightened anticipation was in the air on Day One of New York Fashion Week on Friday. The Official NYFW Schedule kicked off with Helmut Lang, marking designer Peter Do’s second collection for the storied brand. Do tapped into the brand’s DNA, reinvigorating old design codes through new textiles and silhouettes. Centered around the idea of protection, he played with ideas of armor and adornment. The bulletproof vest and bomber jackets were remade in a newly-developed fabric of silk bubble wrap. Bright orange looks inspired by fireman’s costumes pulsed throughout the lineup, and viscose hole-punch dresses and suiting were inspired by perforated construction tarps. Irina Shayk and Alton Mason were among those cast to model the new designs, ushering in a new era of cool for the brand.