The 2023 Fashion Manufacturing Initiative (FMI) Grant Fund recipients were announced earlier this fall, adding an additional $1 million to the continued 10-year investment into local manufacturing by the CFDA and New York City Economic Development Corporation, which totals over $5.6 million to date.

The FMI Grant Fund provides financial grants to local NYC fashion manufacturers to advance their technology, become more sustainable, train their workforce, relocate their business within NYC, and optimize their space through capital improvements.

We surveyed our grant recipients to learn more about their businesses, advice and best practices for designers engaging with local manufacturers, the future of NYC manufacturing, and more.

All of the FMI Grant Fund recipients, and 300-plus additional local U.S. manufacturing resources can be found on the CFDA’s Production Directory here.

DESIGNER ADVICE

What advice would you give designers searching for new manufacturing partners?

“Look for a true partner: someone who wants to work with you and help your business grow over the longer term, not just the cheapest or fastest for the immediate need.” – Capital Cutting

“While cost is a factor, prioritize collaborators who go above and beyond, particularly if you’re in the early stages of your venture.” – Create-A-Marker

“Get to know your partners, give yourself enough time to work on development, be patient during the process and allow mistakes to happen.” – Glory Apparel

“Align yourself with a partner whose vision is not only compatible with yours but whose industry reputation, experience and knowledge will contribute to and enhance your success.” – Heartland Manufacturing

“Try to accommodate for the unexpected, especially when it comes to timeframes and budgets.” – Knit Resort

“Make sure the employees are being treated fairly, the products being used are in line with your brand, and the clothing is [actually] being made here in NY!” – Martin Greenfield Clothiers

“Understanding one another and trusting one another is crucial. It is a partnership.” – Mei Zou Pattern Studio

“Pay attention to see if the manufacturer shares the same priority in perspective with you and respects the way you would handle the collection.” – Refine Studio

“Ask the right questions. Does the factory produce similar price point products currently? Do the factories have production spaces or have any special machines the designers need for their products?” – Sunrise Studio

“When the manufacturer and designer understand the right costing structure, the right quality needs, and the sustainability goals of the brand,  it’s a much better partnership.” – Sustain Brand Advisory + Lab

“Prioritize transparency and due diligence in assessing a potential partner’s capabilities, quality standards, and communication.” – TomTex

Describe the ideal designer client you enjoy working with

“The client should have clear vision, good communication skills, and be able to stop by when we come across a situation/obstacle or a technical aspect we want to double check.” – Dream Fashion

“One who understands that we are people, and not the machines we operate.” – Knit Resort

“A brand or designer that understands and values our artisanal craft and our skilled team.” – LW Pearl

“A designer who comes in with a grandiose, but defined vision.” – Martin Greenfield Clothiers

“Our ideal client is a designer that is an organized designer. They know what they want, have drawings, understand the process, and know that there is a learning curve from both ends.” – Park Avenue Trimming

“My ideal is someone who has a sharp eye for quality and doesn’t like to cut corners.” – Polytime Atelier

“The one who pays their bills fast and on time.” – Sunrise Studio

“Well-organized, receptive to feedback, and values a collaborative, long-term relationship.” – TomTex

What is one thing a designer should never do when working with any factory?

“Factories operate seven days a week and work late into late hours of the night before fashion week. Understanding each other’s efforts and maintaining a respectful and positive atmosphere are important.” – Button Down Factory

“Don’t be too quick to ascribe blame – work through all problems to preserve and build the relationship.” – Capital Cutting

“Neglecting communication can hinder the entire manufacturing process and impact the quality and timeliness of the final product.” – Create-A-Marker

“Not listen to feedback from the people who are actually making the garment but expect different results.” – Emmelle Design

“Never reduce manufacturing relationships to the purely transactional.” – Knit Resort

“Understanding the progressive nature of tiered pricing for one round of product development of a swatch, versus a final prototype after two or three rounds of sampling, versus a production grade sample, etc.” – LW Pearl

“A designer should never delay for months on end or abandon invoices once they have received them. When this happens, the trust is broken.” – Mei Zou Pattern Studio

“Never expect every factory to work the same.” – Park Avenue Trimming

“Yell or be abusive” – Polytime Atelier

“Never assume you know all the capabilities of the factory before visiting.” – Rainbow Leather

“Never assume that a factory understands their requirements or timelines without explicit communication.” – TomTex