“It’s not just about data, it’s about exposing. It’s not just about talking, it’s about taking action,” said Diane von Furstenberg, President and Chairwoman of CFDA.
On Wednesday morning, the CFDA, in partnership with Glamour, hosted a panel led by Glamour editor-in-chief Samantha Barry and featuring Shira Carmi, President of Mansur Gavriel; Carly Cushnie, co-founder and designer of Cushnie et Ochs; and Sarah Dunn, Global HR Officer of Tapestry. The panelists spoke on the findings of The Glass Runway, a study released this week that examines gender inequality in the fashion industry.
The study was conducted by the CFDA, Glamour, and Mckinsey & Company. CFDA’s Steven Kolb revealed that the study was first considered in January 2017 during the time of the Women’s March.
Barry opened the panel by stating the study’s results: “In a lot of industries, the pipeline is the problem getting people in, but what stops people [women] in the middle? What stops them from progressing?” She continued by asking the panelists, “Any big shocks?” “Sadly, no,” replied Dunn.
During the hour-long conversation, the panelists recalled personal accounts of gender inequality, and what they witnessed as managers. A major takeaway the panelists agreed about is that women need to be more confident. “I often have a little person on my shoulder, and sometimes that little person says, ‘don’t say that, don’t ask for that,’” Dunn said. “I don’t think men have that little person on their shoulder.”
Cushnie, who graduated from Parsons School of Design in 2007, learned that lesson the hard way after being turned down from an investor. She now she realizes the importance of being “confident and authoritative.”
Dunn believes another key problem is that “men need to be more aware of their unconscious bias,” which is evident as Barry stated the study’s discovery that “100 percent of women think there’s gender inequality, while only 50 percent of men do.”
Carmi advised transparency in the workplace to prevent misunderstandings and foster communication. Although the issue of gender inequality in the fashion industry is disheartening, the study should be seen as a positive tool for change. Small changes make a difference, such as double checking an email. As Dunn out it, “Words I will not use: ‘I just,’ ‘I’m sorry,’ ‘I think.’”
Barry ended the panel with a question. “I’ve seen this movement of putting money behind sustainable fashion,” she said, “Do you think there is a time now where people should put their money behind companies where gender equality is something they talk about?”
Unequivocally, the answer should be yes.
Read more the study and action items for gender equality here.
