When Claudia Li made the bold decision to step away from the family business and make a name for herself, she had no inkling of the success that would follow. The Parsons graduate worked for Jonathan Anderson and Brandon Maxwell, won the 2017 Fashion Group International Rising Star award, and made the Forbes 30 Under 30 List – to name a few of the accolades. The designer has clearly captivated the industry since launching her collection during New York Fashion Week in 2015, and her designs resonate with a female consumer. Li champions these women, whom she describes as smart, cultured, and confident, much like herself. Born in China and raised across New Zealand, London, New York, to name a few, she designs from a truly international perspective. Informed by her background in fine arts, her unique design aesthetic emphasizes innovative textile use and silhouettes.

Now looking to expand her brand footprint, we caught up with Li to talk about her place in the CFDA Loves NYFW: Ones to Watch shop at Fred Segal.

What’s your earliest fashion memory? 

I was four years old and my grandmother would make clothes for my dolls on an old sewing machine. That would be enough for most kids, but my family tells me I’d go back to my grandmother even as a young little girl and instruct her on the very specific changes I wanted her to make to the dresses!

What inspired you to work in fashion and start your own collection? 

My father built a company from scratch in the art world, so I’ve always had an example of entrepreneurship in my family as long as I can remember. There came a time after university when I had to decide whether or not to work in the family business, and it just felt like my dad’s industry. I decided I wanted to build something of my own. With its mix of design, communication and commerce, fashion felt like an interesting playground.

How would you describe your brand? 

We design clothing for smart women who are interested in the world. Claudia Li is for a client who appreciates design and dresses to please herself. The collection doesn’t rely on any tricks – the clothing in many ways is smart, and we equally presume our customer is smart, too. I think our woman appreciates that because it requires a level of inner self-assuredness or real confidence. We are not a brand that panders to or talks down to women. We try to talk to women at their level and offer something new. The aesthetic from season to season reflects a collage of mixed references that include art, architecture and traditional handcraft, and while our references aren’t too literal, you have to be interested in the world to appreciate our cuts and fabrications.

What sets you apart from other designers? 

Three things. First, my background is in fine arts – I was formally trained in painting – so I think I bring a different eye to how I approach designing clothing. Second, I grew up in cities all over the world –Singapore, Auckland, London, Beijing, New York – so my ideas about women, femininity, the idea of a uniform, and self-presentation have been informed by a truly wide range of contemporary urban women. And third, I think there’s value in being my own customer instead of being a man trying to design for an imaginary dream muse. I design what I’d love to wear, of course, but there are day to day practicalities of being a woman who runs a business, a woman who is constantly on the go and quite often across multiple time zones that really does infuse my collections with a pragmatic edge that I think real women can relate to.

What has been the most difficult part about starting your business? 

What’s difficult is trying to balance the desire for creating something new with developing consistency. It takes time to establish what your brand is known for, whether that’s a visual signature or specific type of product, and the only way to do so is explore the same ideas consistently. At the same time, we’re all on our phones and Instagram 24/7, so there’s this real customer and industry drive for constant newness. Balancing the two can be difficult!

Describe one career highlight so far.  

Being on the Forbes “30 under 30” list was a pinch-myself moment!

Where do you see your brand headed? What’re your goals for the future? 

We want to create and support a tribe of loyal women who share our taste and point of view, and champion these customers who are super-passionate and loyal fans of the brand. We’re not looking to chase trends – there are enough brands that already do that. We’re more interested in showing the world the way we think with our ready-to-wear proposition over the long term.

Hilary wears Claudia Li Top & Skirt, available at Fred Segal. 

Model: Hilary Cerezo, Elite Models

Photographer: Sabrina Santiago

Fashion Editor: Nicky Campbell