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CFDA AT 60

Female Forces of American Fashion

April 6, 2022

Marc Karimzadeh

In France, Coco Chanel, Madeline Vionnet, Jeanne Lanvin, Gaby Aghion, Sonia Rykiel, and Elsa Schiaparelli (who was Italian but Paris-based) were true fashion forces. Italy’s Miuccia Prada, Donatella Versace, and Alberta Ferretti are part of the country’s strong female fashion designer legacy that also includes Donatella Girombelli, Mariuccia Mandelli, Laura Biagotti, and, of course, those fierce Fendi sisters. The English, meanwhile, can trace a refined, quiet elegance to the late Jean Muir, while Zandra Rhodes, Barbara Hulanicki, Mary Quant, and Vivienne Westwood shook things up and brought an energy that’s admired worldwide.

When it comes to female designers in fashion, the Americans held their own in the global fashion landscape. From Valentina’s custom pieces and Ann Lowe’s wedding gown for Jackie Kennedy, Donna Karan’s Seven Easy Pieces and Norma Kamali’s innovative designs such as the Sleeping Bag Coat, to Diane von Furstenberg’s empowering Wrap Dress and Aurora James’ Fifteen Percent Pledge, the women of American fashion have played a powerful role, each shaping our industry’s fashion narrative.

There are simply too many to feature – and we apologize in advance to all those we didn’t – so, as part of CFDA’s 60th anniversary celebration, here’s a salute to some of the female designers who made their mark on American fashion.

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Ann Lowe

The Originals

From the get-go, female designers played a powerful role in the American fashion narrative. Anne Klein, Bonnie Cashin, and Claire McCardell were widely credited with the advent of sportswear, while Pauline Trigere, Mary McFadden, and Ann Lowe made their own mark on the industry.

 

 

01 / 02

Norma Kamali

The Influencers

Donna Karan’s Seven Easy Pieces – complete with a multi-million dollar hosiery line and the secondary DKNY line – led to a global fashion empire, while Norma Kamali’s innovative designs such as the Parachute Dress and her fabulous swimwear collection made her one of the most influential designers in the world.

01 / 03

Anna Sui

The Cool Ones

Whether it’s punk or bohemian or pop, this group of women brings their version of cool to American style.

 

Diane von Furstenberg

Liz Claiborne

Tory Burch

Aurora James

The Empowering Changemakers

Whether it’s through their fashion philosophy and designs or their inspiring words and actions, empowerment – in different ways – is at the core of the ethos for Diane von Furstenberg, Tory Burch, and Aurora James, and it was for the late Liz Claiborne.

 

01 / 03

Carolina Herrera

The Elegant Ones

Nothing says elegance more than the classy style of Carolina Herrera, the artful chic of the late Isabel Toledo, and the made-to-measure creations of Valentina.

 

 

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Gabriela Hearst

The Eco Warriors

When it comes to sustainability and the environment, the women of American fashion have led the charge.

01 / 02

Vera Wang

The Reinventors

Every so often, a designer comes along who completely reinvents an existing apparel category. Case in point, Vera Wang for bridal and Liz Lange for maternity wear.

 

 

01 / 02

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen.

The Sister Acts

Designer siblings are pretty much a rarity, but American fashion has two great sister acts in Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy and The Row’s Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen.

Courtesy Photo; Lowe, Valentina, McFadden, Klein, Cashin, Trigere, Claiborne, Lange by Getty Images

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