In the heart of Midtown, Manhattan, the New York garment district has been recognized as the center of fashion manufacturing. In honor of Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month, we caught up with two garment district factory owners: Mei Zou of Mei Pattern Studio and Yu Chen (Nay) Huang of One to 13 Studio. They are two among hundreds of factories in that sector that play an indispensable role in the fashion industry. Zou and Huang share their insights into New York City production and provide tips for designers looking to produce locally.

MEI PATTERN STUDIO
260 W 36^th Street Suite 802, New York, NY 10018
Website/Instagram: www.meipatternstudio.com , @meipatternstudio
Explore Mei Pattern Studio on the CFDA’s Production Directory here.

What does your factory make or specialize in producing?

Mei Pattern Studio is a luxury pattern and sample-making studio primarily focused on runway collections and custom/made-to-measure orders for special events such as weddings, the Met Gala, and the Oscars. We offer the entire process, starting with draping, fittings, pattern making, and pattern adjustments, which I digitize through CAD system, and turn out sample prototypes, final SMS pieces, and even do small-scale production. My studio also offers pre-production consulting and guidance and sourcing if necessary. We work closely with each client, whether they are a big brand, an up-and-coming designer, a celebrity, or someone who is looking for a custom piece for a special occasion.

When did you start your business?

I started Mei Pattern Studio in 2019, but I have been pattern and sample making for over 30 years now. I worked as the head in-house pattern maker for Narciso Rodriguez for just under 20 years. When I stopped working for Narciso, I worked short-term for a handful of brands, including Alexander Wang, Aztech Mountain, and Coach. I rented a studio space in 2019 before the pandemic hit so I could have more room to work freelance, as opposed to working at home. I wound up not using the space over the height of the pandemic, but I came back at the end of 2020 and little by little my business has grown through word of mouth and connections I have made in the industry. I now have 10 employees who are like family and had to move into a bigger studio which is next door to the first one.

How did you get into apparel manufacturing? What appealed to you about it?

I love clothing, and I love meeting new designers. Working on new styles is always exciting and has always been a dream of mine. I feel proud of myself every time I turn out a garment just like the designer’s sketch; it is incredibly rewarding for me to do the work I do and to make people’s dreams come true. Ever since I was little, around middle school, I would take scraps of fabric and make clothes for my baby dolls. I fell in love with handwork and creating and bringing my visions to life through draping, drawing patterns, and sewing – I have not stopped since. I love the entire process, working step by step until the final piece is finished. It is magical to see the final piece come to life and know that it started as a piece of paper and some handwork.

What are your recommendations for new designers that might be interested to work with local manufacturers?

The most crucial piece of advice I would give is to know and understand that we are small businesses and operate differently from huge corporate factories/corporate brands. We work hard to support our families and doing what we love, which is to help make our client’s dream into a reality.

The garment district is special and unique, filled with so many fascinating people- it is a community. Some designers forget this, or avoid acknowledging this, and think that paying on time does not matter. Of course, this is deeply untrue as the majority of the money spent making pieces come to life, comes straight from our pockets, and we hope and trust the client and/or designer will reimburse us and pay us for our hard work.

I also would advise the designer to think uniquely, I love seeing new fresh designs that break barriers- designs that have not been done before. I find much too often these days that designers rip off other designers and copy their ideas, making a cheaper version of what already exists. It is disheartening and like fast food, not healthy.

The month of May marks the national celebration of Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month. What does this month mean to you?

This month is very important to me. It is powerful to see people realizing how important Asian Americans are in the United States, how hard we work, and how much we respect this country. We love this country, and we love that we have voices, that we can stand out, and that people can see how important we are to the United States. I am so proud to be an Asian American.

ONE TO 13 STUDIO, INC
248 W 35^th ST RM 601, New York, NY10001
Website/Instagram: www.oneto13studio.com ; @oneto13studio
Explore One To 13 Studio, Inc on the CFDA’s Production Directory here.

What does your factory make or specialize in producing?

We specialize in runway sample development, production, and special customized projects. Our specialized product type includes cocktail dresses, gowns, contemporary dresses, tailored jackets, suits, and wedding dresses. We also specialize in hand draping. We also work closely with the best independent pattern makers in the industry to offer pattern-making services.

When did you start your business?

Formerly, we were known as Blue Ribbon Couture. Blue Ribbon Couture collaborated with the most prestigious brands for over 15 years. I worked for Blue Ribbon as the assistant manager for 5 years and later acquired the factory in 2019 to continue its legacy. The studio was renamed to One to 13 Studio, Inc, aiming to give a fresh and young outlook to our future customers.

How did you get into apparel manufacturing? What appealed to you about it?

I majored in Fashion Design in Taiwan. I came to the United States in 2009 following my dream to work in the Fashion industry in New York. The more I learn about the ins and outs of the garment industry, the more I am fascinated by the technical skills behind garment making. Constructing garments requires very special skills. I get very excited about the process of producing the garment. It is so satisfying to see an idea from sketch to fruition. The process relies upon a surprising amount of collaborative problem-solving and communication with clients, and that is our forte.

Where do you see the most need within fashion production in New York City today?

Fewer and fewer young people are willing to learn the traditional way of making garments. The handcrafting skills are getting lost. We need the younger generation to join the industry, not only on the design end but on the manufacturing end. We are hoping to see more workshops held by local institutions and leading organizations to promote the opportunities offered by the industry.

There is also the need to bring in computer-aid equipment that is more relevant to today’s needs, which would ultimately save cost, increase speed to market, and make the manufacturing process more sustainable.

What do you consider the top benefits of making clothes in New York City?

The biggest benefit for brands to make garments in New York City is the hands-on collaboration. Every step is crucial for the final result of the piece. Designers have the opportunity to get involved and make live decisions. New York manufacturers are reliable, quick to respond, and excellent problem solvers. Having healthy partnerships is very important for designers and manufacturers. We truly enjoy learning and growing with all of our customers.

Where do you see New York City apparel manufacturing in five years?

Before the pandemic, I was worried about the future of the manufacturer. I saw the role of the local manufacturer shrinking with most productions transferred overseas. After the pandemic, the industry realized that the global supply chain has been disrupted and become less reliable. As a result, many brands have decided to return to the US and rely upon local productions. This is great news for us, however, many brands are expecting U.S. production prices to be competitive with overseas, which, unfortunately, raises another issue with low paid wages and manufacturers are forced to be squeezed to meet demands.

The month of May marks the national celebration of Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month. What does this month mean to you?

The AAPI month is a very important time for us to celebrate our heritage. It also helps raise the awareness that hate crimes against Asian still happen every day. Thanks to documentary films like “Invisible Seams”, which speak up for the crucial piece of the NY garment industry, the Asian manufacturers behind the runways, and remind us that everyone should be celebrated regardless of their race and occupation.