Christian Juul Nielsen has an impressive fashion resume. The Danish-born designer got his start in Paris at Nina Ricci and Christian Lacroix, then Christian Dior, where he worked with both John Galliano and, later, Raf Simons. The CFDA member moved across the pond to New York, first at Oscar de la Renta under Peter Copping, then at J. Mendel as Consulting Design Director, and, in 2018, at Herve Leger, where he was Creative Director until 2023.

Now, his full time responsibility and creative capacity is going towards his own line, AKNVAS. Launched in 2019 as an advanced contemporary womenswear collection, Nielsen’s ethos centers on interesting and effortless styles for professional, dynamic, working women. Kerry Washington, Mary J. Blige, and Sabrina Carpenter are just a few of the boldface names he’s dressed with the brand, which currently sold at Saks Fifth Avenue, FWRD, Shopbop, Revolve, and other specialty stores.

This season, the designer was inspired by a recent journey to Rome, and he plans to take viewers on a transcendent journey where history, contemporary art, and cultural influences converge on the runway.

Ahead of his Fall-Winter 2024 runway show, we spoke with Nielsen to get a glimpse of what to expect this season.

Where did you get inspiration for this season’s collection?

The collection pays homage to my profound respect for history, seamlessly weaving the essence of Ancient Rome with contemporary flair. Our vision also extends further to the vibrant atmosphere of the Chelsea galleries in New York City, drawing inspiration from the emotive portraits by John Currin. Adding another layer of architectural homage, column shapes emerge throughout the collection, mirroring the grandeur of Roman columns. These structural elements adorn garments, offering a sculptural dimension that echoes the iconic architecture of the ancient city.

We wanted to channel the provocative allure of John Currin’s “Memorials” series, featuring women draped in light fabrics, exuding sensuality and intimacy. Textures include stonewashed denim flowers inspired by Hellenistic statues, gold details echoing the palazzos of Rome, and new faux furs that bring the portraits of John Currin to life. Textures are always key to AKNVAS collections, as with this season seen in elongated cable knit pencil skirts, wool pom poms, and fringe decorating knit styles on both oversized sweaters and body-con rib dresses.

What is it that draws you to New York and NYFW?

I’m captivated by the spontaneity of New York and its inclusive atmosphere, where everyone gets a chance to thrive. NYFW has been incredibly supportive of my brand from the outset, fueling my desire to show here. Showing in NYC has been instrumental in connecting with U.S.-based retailers and nurturing those relationships as we continue to expand our presence on American soil. There is an appetite for new brands that I see in the U.S. that I don’t find in Europe. I know you previously served as Herve Leger’s Creative Director until 2023.

How does it feel to be completely out on your own and focusing on your own collection?

Amazing, frightening, liberating! I loved working on both brands, but there is a certain satisfaction to giving AKNVAS the push it needs to keep growing, especially as we start expanding into more categories.

What do you want people to take away from this collection?

Hopefully an impression of creativity. My goal is to bring my experience from Europe to America. The goal is for the guests to leave the runway excited feeling they saw something new and fresh.

Stay tuned for the brand’s runway collection on Monday, Feb. 12th at 1 PM EST.