At the closing of the New York Fashion Week season, the CFDA and Studio by Tishman Speyer gathered a variety of designers, industry professionals, and fashion enthusiasts for a panel discussion on the trends to know this season.
Jalil Johnson, industry expert and writer of the “Consider Yourself Cultured” fashion Substack, and Aldo Araujo, CFDA’s Senior Marketing & Communications Manager, two delved into the themes they observed across runways and presentations, which were a marathon of fine craftsmanship and creative ingenuity by New York’s design community.
The conversation kicked off with a discussion on the democratization of the week. From CFDA’s first-time streaming screen at Rockefeller Center to the decentralization of venues to designer preferences, varied factors this season enhanced NYFW’s value proposition.
Batsheva’s location, showing in the street near her store, was discussed as emblematic of her unique brand ethos: “It was really beautiful. It speaks to the perseverance of herself and her design, and really added something to the show,” Johnson said of designer Batsheva Hay’s offering.
The two also explored the visiting designers who chose New York as their temporary home, including COS, Alaïa, Ronald Van Der Kemp, and Totême.
“A personal highlight for me was Patricio Campillo of Campillo, who decided to come to New York to make his debut in the American fashion industry,” Araujo explained.
Another notable aspect of the New York runways were the celebrities on the runway, from BLACKPINK’s Jisoo walking for Tommy Hilfiger, to Ella Emhoff for Coach, to Tiffany Haddish for Monse. The immersion of fashion in pop culture was prescribed as a potential catalyst for this “celebrity effect” as well as the internet buzz that a famous face can bring to a brand.
Collaborations like Jane Wade x Nike, Zankov x Selima Optique, Naeem Khan x Wicked were lauded for their creativity and clever curation. These included the sportswear languages of Jane Wade and Nike, the designer-to-designer nature of Zankov and Selima, and the dramatic silhouettes that Naeem Khan can lend to the camp-tastic world of Wicked.
Activism on the runway was also a key player per Johnson and Araujo. Fashion For Our Future (the nonpartisan march organized by the CFDA and Vogue to bring unity to our industry and encourage voting), as well Willy Chavarria’s placement of the Constitution on guests’ seats and the use of the American flag across collections was explored.
A throughline of the conversation was a trend toward positivity on and off the runway, from sizing representation, to product experimentation, to energized audiences.
“I truly felt optimism…I think there’s a real hope in these collections, and it’s really inspiring,” Johnson said.
With NYFW evolving to reflect a broader range of voices and visions, a brighter, dynamic energy was left with guests at the event’s close, departing with enthusiasm and excitement.
