CFDA Fellow Journal: Susan Zienty at Kenneth Cole
December 10, 2019
Susan Zienty



Susan Zienty x Kenneth Cole
Susan Zienty x Kenneth Cole
Susan Zienty x Kenneth Cole
Susan Zienty x Kenneth Cole
Susan Zienty x Kenneth Cole
CFDA asked the 2018 Kenneth Cole Footwear Innovation Award recipient to keep a journal and chronicle her path to Kenneth Cole’s first sustainable Maddox sneaker.
Journal Entry #1, February 20, 2019
While rummaging through vintage Kenneth Cole catalogues, editorials, and runway shows archived in our Design Services department, I came across a 1990s advertisement highlighting Kenneth Cole’s hopes for the world in the year 2020. The brand’s aspirations for the state of the world more than 20 years later still stand.
The importance of analyzing the past in order to successfully carve out the future inspired the foundation of my fellowship proposal. After experiencing departmental rotations at Kenneth Cole, I identified an opportunity to execute elevated, modern dress product with highly-durable performance attributes to battle the elements and withstand the test of time. I proposed two solutions I believed would be most impactful in cohesion – revive the archive and lifeproof the shoe. I planned to honor the heritage of the brand and celebrate past successes through reinvention of iconic silhouettes injected with current technology.
Development of new TECHNI-COLE technology in the form of innovative, multi-purpose textiles would optimize performance and maximize product longevity. I believed dynamic product of this nature would greatly appeal to both our brand-loyal consumer who experienced the evolution of Kenneth Cole firsthand as well as our environmentally-conscious consumer who takes interest in circularity.
My main goal was to achieve innovation through the integration of comfort solutions, performance technology, and the responsible use of resources. Additionally, I aimed to incentivize consumers to invest in core classics built around quality and craftsmanship. I strongly believed executing a thoughtfully-designed, long-lasting product would serve as a strong contribution to the brand’s future.
Journal Entry #2, May 15, 2019
After receiving invaluable guidance from some of the brand’s long-standing contributors, I was able to identify iconic shoe styles from Kenneth Cole’s heritage. With mentorship from the footwear design team and a dive into Kenneth Cole’s archival shoe closet supporting my pursuit, I proceeded to develop modernized iterations of our historically best-selling shoes.
The CFDA served as an incredible resource for information regarding sustainable materials, responsible supply chain management, and circular approaches to creating product. I found it imperative to not only understand our company’s current product efforts, but the product sustainability efforts of others in our industry, as well.
Attendance at the CFDA’s monthly lectures and workshops gave me the opportunity to connect with industry leaders paving the way for a more sustainable future. As these connections grew, my curiosity about circularity and textile technologies flourished.
Upon receiving the samples of the archival shoes modernized, it was determined that a pivot in the pursuit of my fellowship project was necessary. My mentors and I were in agreement that the styles created simply did not sit well within the current collection.
In perfect timing, another opportunity arose – an invitation to detail and develop a best-selling style made with sustainability in mind. The overstock materials in our factories that had gone unutilized for seasons were about to find a new home on the upper of our Maddox Sneaker.
Journal Entry #3, June 18, 2019
In order to revive our best-selling style from a fresh, eco-conscious perspective, we challenged our sourcing team to scavenge the market for an array of responsible materials. With close mentorship from Kenneth deeply rooted in my mind, I understood that the resources we integrated into the product had to LOOK GOOD, FOR GOOD. The materials used need to visually appeal to our consumer and befriend Mother Earth simultaneously.
In addition to a strong aesthetic and a sustainably-focused core, it was vital that the more resourceful version of our Maddox Sneaker was accessible to our consumer at a competitive price.
This goal was challenging due to the limited quantities of overstock materials resulting in an intimate, exclusive run of production. However, with the growing demand for sustainably-designed products in the marketplace, we were able to find responsible resources at competitive costs.
Additionally, we maintained a commitment to upcycling resources we already had available.
After sourcing responsible materials, analyzing cost breakdowns, and considering an array of design iterations, we landed on seven potential skus. In order to design these iterations, I collaborated with the production team to methodically calculate the square footage used on each pattern piece of the upper across all pairs to be produced. Being mindful of the available overstock materials was essential to ensure the shoes were made to maximize material usage and minimize waste.
Upon receiving finalized samples, our Consumer Direct team responded positively not only to the shoes, but to the story as well, which prompted them to commit a buy to three skus. The Maddox Resource was officially in business and ready for its debut. With laces made of recycled polyester, an eco-content outsole, and an upper composed of overstock materials & recycled neoprene, the Maddox Resource marked a first step towards a more sustainable future.
Journal Entry #4, December 4, 2019
Following the celebrated success of the Maddox Resource, which I had the great fortune to collaborate on, I was offered a permanent position to join the Kenneth Cole Gentle Souls team as the Assistant Footwear Designer. My new role is to assist in the concept, design, & creation of the Gentle Souls collection. However, my focus on the importance of integrating more responsible design elements into our product has not taken a back seat. In fact, it has been a key driving force in the creation of new footwear ideas. At Kenneth Cole, we are continuously working to infuse our products with the values we hold most dear. I’ve learned that being encouraged to use footwear as a vehicle for change is what makes this company and its leadership so remarkable. I’m honored to have the opportunity to work for a brand as pioneering as Kenneth Cole.