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CFDA IMPACT

Career Conversations: The Big Small-Town Dreams of Marquelle Turner-Gilchrist

May 31, 2024

Rashad Benton

Marquelle Turner-Gilchrist’s journey from the stoplight-free town of Johnsonville, N.C., to the apex of global luxury brands is a testament to resilience and unyielding ambition. Raised in a single-parent household under the shadow of significant financial hardship, Marquelle discovered a sanctuary in fashion, using it as a shield against the harshness of poverty. This early passion propelled him to graduate from Fayetteville State University with a degree in business administration, concentrating in marketing. He further distinguished himself by earning dual master’s degrees in global luxury management and global innovation management from North Carolina State University and Skema Business School in France.

He began his career as assistant buyer for Hugo Boss in New York City, contributing to the brand’s shift to luxury, and later played key roles in launching Galeries Lafayette Doha and expanding the luxury Turkish brand Vakko into Qatar. Returning to the U.S., he oversaw men’s wearing occasions globally for Hugo Boss before leading men’s ready-to-wear strategy for North America at Gucci. He also served as head of partner success and special projects at Showfields before fully committing to Atelier Lenora.

Fluent in French and an academic authority with a thesis on metrosexuality, Marquelle leverages his platform to inspire and uplift others, embodying his conviction that no one should endure the struggles he once faced. Today, he stands as a paragon of excellence and empowerment, epitomizing the transformative power of perseverance and self-belief.

Elijah Rodney for the TNS: STORIES NYC Launch

Could you shed light on the circumstances or experiences that facilitated your direct transition from completing your education to securing a role at Hugo Boss, bypassing the conventional route of gaining experience through internships and entry-level positions typically associated with becoming an assistant buyer?

It’s true, breaking into the fashion industry typically requires years of internships and climbing the ladder. I count myself incredibly fortunate that my career took off without following that traditional path.

LinkedIn played a pivotal role in my career journey. Back in 2013, I reached out to Black professionals in the industry for guidance, and Kenny Anderson, then the vice president of merchandising at Hugo Boss, responded. This started a meaningful professional relationship. When I moved to NYC in October 2014 and struggled to find my footing, I reached out to him again. We met months later at Cafeteria, a significant spot for me, marking a turning point. Kenny has since become one of my mentors, offering invaluable guidance and support that has been instrumental in my career development.

During that meeting, Kenny asked about my preferences—product or numbers. When I expressed my inclination towards product, he mentioned two roles I was interested in and offered to arrange an interview. I interviewed with the senior buyer of Clothing Dress Furnishings and then with the divisional merchandising manager, before being offered the role. Despite the steep learning curve, they took a chance on me, and the rest is history.

Your professional experiences in countries such as France, Italy, Qatar, and Turkey undoubtedly provided you with invaluable exposure to diverse cultural nuances within the luxury and fashion industry. How do you perceive this exposure has influenced your perspective on luxury and fashion, particularly concerning your ability to cater to a wide array of consumer preferences and expectations?

Honestly, what truly prepared me for the challenges ahead was my graduate school education. The unique structure of my program split my time between the United States and the south of France, offering an immersive international experience. While my French fluency was limited, the program was conducted in English, allowing me to adapt and improve my language skills significantly over time.

Skema, the school I attended in France, welcomed students from diverse backgrounds, including local French students who joined us for the first semester in the U.S. Collaborating with peers from various countries exposed me to different cultural expectations, communication styles, and working norms. Traveling together and engaging in projects further broadened my perspective, highlighting the importance of language sensitivity and the impact of word choices on interpersonal dynamics.

Working from Sunday through Thursday in Doha in contrast to the Monday-to-Friday schedule I was accustomed to in the U.S. underscored the diverse cultural signatures attached to days of the week. These experiences, coupled with my education, equipped me with invaluable skills for navigating diverse time zones, cultures, and corporate environments firsthand.

Looking back on your tenure at Gucci, where you spearheaded the men’s ready-to-wear strategy for the United States and Canada, what were some of the unexpected lessons you acquired during that pivotal phase of your career?

Gucci was undoubtedly the most rigorous company I’ve worked for, speaking candidly. Renowned for its success and well-oiled machinery, the culture of excellence permeated every aspect of merchandising, where proficiency and efficiency were paramount. Gucci taught me the importance of preparation and the art of storytelling—a skill essential for navigating the brand’s powerful narrative, particularly during the era of Alessandro Michele.

In your capacity as the founder of Atelier Lenora, a consulting firm positioned at the nexus of creativity and commerce, how do you maintain equilibrium between your unwavering confidence in your vision and the continual strategic deliberations necessary to guide the company forward?

Lenora, my mother’s middle name, holds special significance for me. Becoming an entrepreneur was never part of my original plan. I was content with a traditional job. Prior to relocating to Los Angeles, I served as the head of special projects and partner success at a retail innovation firm. My role encompassed two key responsibilities: devising strategies to support partner brands in our retail space and spearheading special projects aimed at driving innovation and sales. Drawing on my experience and the guidance of a friend named Austin Thach, who taught me the importance of keeping overhead costs low, I felt empowered to take a chance on entrepreneurship. Confident in my abilities and determined not to let myself fail; I poured my energy into creating something meaningful—something that bears my mother’s name.

Olushola Bashorun for TNS: STORIES

Could you share the process behind launching and/or assisting in the publication of “The New Stereotype: Stories” a book that seemingly explores the innovative exploration of challenging stereotypes? What inspired you to undertake this endeavor?

In 2015, I embarked on a creative journey with “The New Stereotypes,” a digital photo series aimed at reshaping the narrative of Black representation in media. It was my way, showcasing the diverse spectrum of Black experiences—from figures like Michelle Obama to the Sexyy Red’s. Moving abroad shifted my perspective on Blackness, revealing the nuanced variations beyond the American lens, such as those seen in countries like Jamaica, UK, Zimbabwe and South Africa.

Inspired by works like “Black Boy Fly” by Joshua Renfroe and “The New Black Vanguard” by Antwaun Sargent, I sought to create a hybrid of those that celebrated our multifaceted identities. As the project director of “The New Stereotypes Stories,” I ensured our creativity remained uninterrupted. Olushola Bashorun, Director of Photography; Wendy Odour, Creative Director and Head of Operations; Fred Sands, IV, Graphic Designer, and I meticulously curated original concepts and editorials, capturing the essence of over 50 individuals in locations spanning Los Angeles, New York City, and Chicago. The undertaking was not without its challenges; self-funding the project proved to be an immensely expensive. From the countless photoshoots and flights to the task of printing the book—weighing a hefty 5.3 pounds—the expenses mounted. Inspired by the tragic events surrounding Mike Brown, the project emerged as a response to the media’s tendency to overlook his humanity, focusing instead on irrelevant aspects of his life.

As you look ahead to the future of Atelier Lenora over the next six months, what thrilling initiatives or projects are you and your team envisioning?

One of the most fulfilling endeavors I’m currently involved in is with a non-profit organization called “Los Angeles Room and Board.” Our mission is to provide housing and food resources to homeless college students who struggle to afford the high cost of living in the city. With rents reaching as high as $2200 for a basic apartment, many students find themselves living on the streets or in their cars while trying to pursue their education. To address this pressing issue, we’re developing a premium clothing line from the ground up, with 100% of the proceeds dedicated to reducing homelessness. This initiative mirrors the impactful models of companies like Toms and Warby Parker, where every purchase directly contributes to the cause. I’m particularly enthusiastic about this project because it’s rare to find companies that allocate all profits back into their mission, and I’m excited to be part of an effort to combat student hunger and homelessness in LA.

Photo by Olushola Bashorun and Design by Fred Sands, IV. for TNS: STORIES

Book can be purchased here.

CFDA Impact
Galeries Lafayette Doha
Gucci
Hugo Boss
Marquelle Turner-Gilchrist
Vakko

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