Gathering for the 12th installment of Americans in Paris, the designers were ready to expand their brand horizons by meeting new buyers and press. Fueled with optimism, as well as plenty of LIFEWTR and croissants, the designers took a moment to answer a few questions for CFDA.
How did being part of the CFDA/VogueFashion Fund impact your business?
Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg of Area: Aside from landing Barneys New York as a result, “Bella Hadid has worn four looks this week, and Kendall wore the earrings,” said Panszczyk. “Kim Kardashian ordered two furs bras. And they support us by paying for things.”
Kristopher Brock of Brock Collection: “The fund motivated and us and encouraged us to better our business in every aspect by breaking down and analyzing your collection as a business into the future.”
Joshua Cooper of Rochambeau: “It was our internal team and operations side that got better, easier able to turn around projects quicker and upped the level of quality. We got better.”
Where and/or when was your first sale?
Ji Oh: “My first sale I made right was after New York Fashion Week. Intermix, Louis Boston, The Webster (23 stores in total) bought me the first season including 10 Japanese accounts which help fund me. The second season I got my dream store, Barneys.”
Adam Selman: “Technically it was two; Opening Ceremony bought it in States and Browns bought it in UK. The buyers and I still laugh about that now. I like making those kinds of of connections.”
Maryam Malakpour of NewbarK: “Natalie Massenet (then at Net-a-Porter) said, ‘are you ready for this?’ We went back to our Argentinian shoemaker telling him maybe we would make 10, 20 pairs. The order was for 500, and another 200 two weeks later because they had sold out.”
Do you remember how getting your first piece of press affected your business?
Piotrek Panszczyk: “Katharine Zarrella, (then) of Style.com, came to see the collection and review the runway show. She was the one who picked up on what we did and gave us an amazing write-up. To this day, she supports and we email her with questions.”
Laura Vassar Brock of Brock Collection: When Emma Stone was spotted in a Brock Collection red coat at a Jimmy Fallon taping, “It brought attention to the brand because then everyone wondered, ‘what is that coat and where can I get it? Why have I never seen this? What is that fabric?’ Then Vogue showed interested in us.”
Stirling Barrett of Krewe: An early frame style called the Toulouse was featured in Elle magazine which “showed me the power of press, especially celebrity. Within a week or two, Beyoncé wore them. Neither was pay-to-play, so you have to make a good enough product that puts you out there.”
Morgan Curtis of Morgan Lane: “[Karin Nelson of W Magazine] did a feature on two pieces of appliqué lingerie that I still carry and the article still serves as a point of reference for what the brand is about. It started with oil paintings of dolls which became a part of the identity.”
What advice would you give to those thinking of launching a brand?
Chloe Gosselin: “It’s not going to be easy and learn to be patient. It’s the way it is and it is the message of what you create that makes you different.”
Stirling Barrett: “Don’t be afraid to sell on your own direct to consumer and wholesale. Direct sales are needed to fund business to keep it going. You have to have the one item that everyone wants.”
Marjan Malakpour of NewbarK: “Be focused about what you are doing; study what’s out there. It’s one thing to come up with an idea and launch it and another to figure out how to keep going.”
Morgan Curtis: “Try to start with one really focused idea and master it for a silhouette. Make your branding and signature as important as the actual clothing to create a story people want to buy into.”
What are your most looking forward to doing in Paris outside of the showroom?
Stirling Barrett: “As a proper New Orleanian, I want to go to Champagne and drink some champagne. And shop, I actually like to go to cool stores.”
Chloè Gosselin: “I’m taking the train to Normandy to visit my 94 year-old grandfather. I’m really close to him.”
Adam Selman: “I’m going to Monaco right from Paris to discuss a special project.”
Laurence Chandler of Rochambeau: A trip to a fabled restaurant. “Owner Dave of Davé loves us and has great gossip stories of the last 30 years. It is going to be closing down so we want to have a farewell dinner there.”
