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Career Conversations: The Bags, Edits & Influences of Ashley Ciriaco

July 26, 2023

Rashad Benton

Ashley Ciriaco, the 24-year-old designer behind the viral crescent moon purse, is a mixture of southern and northern roots. Born and raised in Atlanta, she spent every summer in New York City with her father’s side of the family in The Bronx.

Her first designs were princess dresses due to her infatuation with Cinderella. She hoped to attend The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), only to get rejected from the prominent fashion school. But despite four years of highs and lows, and with determination to follow her dreams, she enrolled in Berkeley College where she created the blueprint for her brand CIRIACO.

The Covid-19 lockdown offered some unexpected freedom, allowing Ashley more time for design research via YouTube. Social media and its ability to make things go viral—as it did with her brand in 2020—provided her enough success, support, and transactions that Ashley has just moved into her first solo apartment as an adult. Her days of daydreaming and living vicariously through Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, Sex and The City, Gossip Girl, True Jackson VP, and being inspired by teenage designer Raven Baxter from Disney’s “That’s So Raven” have ended and she’s arrived.

Her focus on accessories was partly influenced by the fact that everyone was trying to create a hoodie, graphic tee, and sweatshirt brand. Her willingness to divert from that has made her quite the standout Afro-Latina designer. The byproduct of a Haitian and Dominican father and Dominican mother, she designs with several demos in mind—a main one being the “girlies”—and she keeps it affordable with her mid-tier price point ranging from $165 – $400. With new product in development, she is in the process of helping break her latest moniker the “Bag Lady”–queue Erykah Badu.

Between Atlanta and New York, which city has had more of an influence on you?

New York City significantly influenced how I dress, whereas Atlanta was where I spent my early childhood. Even then, many of the shows I grew up watching were based on life in New York City. I thought being in New York would make reaching my dreams and growing my brand much easier, which in a way has proven to be true. I know now, however I didn’t at the time, that Atlanta has its own fashion scene; though smaller, it has gained a lot of relevance. Again, when I was living there, the style was oversized white tees and baggy pants, and people called it a day. The South does have its influence in different ways because it did raise me halfway.

Photo Credit Valine Brana

You sought a bachelor’s degree in fashion merchandising at Berkeley College. What, in your opinion, was the most vital thing you learned while you were there that you apply to your company today?

Patience is key, and not to always go with your first design or mockup. If you find yourself second-guessing, then continue to make tweaks. I save drafts of each and every adaptation for evidence and to analyze each in light of the fact that I might wind up loving the second or third version versus the first or seventh draft. It also taught me a great deal about business when dealing with numbers, production cost, etc., which comes in handy quite often because people seem to think that I don’t know much because I am young.

Would you tell others that they can prevail without schooling or a formal education in fashion in this day and age, or would you urge them to pursue one?

This is cliche, but I would tell people to go with their gut. You must be honest with yourself and figure out how deep you want to go in fashion and what part of the industry you want to live in. Research is critical for everyone exploring a new field. If you find yourself interested in the marketing side, I encourage taking the higher education route. If “fun” is the goal and you simply want to make garments to make garments, I would agree to take a risk without it since we’ve seen a few individuals become big-time without degrees. I was first generation; my mother was keen on me receiving an education. It was a big deal.

Photo Credit Valine Brana

If you hadn’t gone to school, would you be where you are now?

I do not believe so. I’m grateful for Berkeley College because it was there during that time that I was able to secure $1000 to start. I was a part-time student and worker, and my mindset back then was, “Do I really want to do this; not really,” but again, my mom was serious about my education and essentially forced me into it.

How does one determine their desire to make purses?

It was an easier avenue to get into. It’s not as difficult and cutthroat as fashion design, i.e., suits, dresses, and so forth. Sure, we have patterns and other related techniques that one must learn, but it’s different with clothing where you must make sure every single pant or denim jeans fits everyone the same knowing body types vary widely. With bags, regardless of who wears them or the size of the individual, it’s one shape and will continue to look the way it was intended to, regardless.

On a less serious note, I wanted to do something for the girlies; that’s who it was for, and me. Everyone can’t afford Louis Vuitton and brands that are in the high-end lane. Being keen on that also impacted how I priced my product.

Photo Credit Valine Brana

Who do you have in mind when you’re sketching or working on a new product?

Riri and Doja Cat. One of the inspirations for the cow bag was Doja Cat, based on her “Moo” music video. And for the girls and guys who channel their style after those two women.

The design of your bag has a distinctive shape and appearance. How’d you come up with this idea?

I was living with my father when I developed the idea of the shape which is an asymmetrical moon. Unfortunately, seven days prior to Thanksgiving, during my sophomore year, my father kicked me out of the house since he wasn’t into or didn’t really accept that I was being truthful about being a student and working all the while. It was difficult for him to grasp because he struggled with making it in New York during his earlier years. Due to this, I stayed with a friend for a couple of days and then found myself living in a shelter.

My boyfriend and I would meet up nightly, and I would spend time sketching; originally, it wasn’t meant to be a half-crescent moon, but I ended up not perfecting the sketch, and he stopped me and said, “Keep it like that,” and I did. It became the “Ashley” bag because that’s what the people who support and follow me dubbed it.

Photo Credit Valine Brana

Are there any heritage labels you hope your brand becomes one day?

Yes, I’m hoping for longevity and not just viralness. People often say it reminds them of Prada, but when you ask, I’m also picturing Chanel or Dior and even Versace. I aspire to become one of those brands that are hot now, but then 15/20 years from now, people are coming back to get that item that is now “vintage.” Just as people are vying for the 80s and 90s designs today.

Let’s talk about production. Where are the bags produced and the materials sourced from?

The bags are produced in China, and I sourced fabric from a mill in the Poconos, PA, Mood Fabrics in the Garment District, and some stores in Chinatown. I was turned down by three different factories that didn’t believe in me based on my age, which was 20, and my budget. Finally, the fourth place I reached out to agreed to work with me, and Celine (the lady I work with) told me what they could produce with the money I had on hand. They approved 15 samples, and we’ve since established a consistent relationship. I base my schedule on her overseas timing to make it easier for us to Facetime or chat via WhatsApp.

I came across your bags in Harlem at Atmos on 125th; I know you’re also sold at Kith. Are you contacting specific stores to have them carry your products, or are they contacting you?

They’re contacting me, and it feels good because it’s like, “Oh, I matter?” ha-ha, it’s a super cool feeling. One of the big box high-end department stores we all know also reached out to me, so hopefully, I will hear more about that soon. A soccer team also recently reached out about a possible collaboration regarding a jersey. Kith has exclusive colorways that aren’t sold anywhere, but all the retailers want exclusives, which I am providing.

Photo Credit Valine Brana

How many purses would you say you sell a month at this point?

I remember when I felt lucky to sell five bags. Presently, it’s somewhere in the range of three and 500 every month when I account for my site and the retailers. It’s going extremely well, so much so that I’m on the verge of being able to afford an assistant.

I noticed earrings on your website, so I’m curious: Are you in the accessories industry because you know it can be profitable or because you love the craft and the idea of seeing your visions come to life?

No, I love the craft and would still be chasing it if I hadn’t gone viral. I still have a hard time processing that I’d made it to where I’m today because I was just having fun with it. I genuinely adore it, and even if I weren’t designing, I was always into drawing and entering art contests and such.

Do you feel confident transitioning from designing accessories to apparel?

I do, and honestly speaking, that’s what I had written down on paper first. The idea of bags was a last-minute decision. I want Ciriaco to become an actual fashion house and for there to be options, i.e., clothes, socks, bras, and accessories for women, men, and nonbinary people. I have a lot of ideas; it’s just finding the manufacturers who can produce the clothing at the level I want it to be made, think Rick Owens quality, which means it will surely be more costly. I have been dropping clues like here’s a shoe, a jacket, and here’s our new earrings which are live on the site now. I am not just a bag lady as certain people have referred to me as.

Photo Credit Valine Brana

Lastly, since you and your audience will have grown up in the next five years, are you considering larger bags that might be useful for people with more responsibilities?

Yes, I have samples of several larger purses and a couple duffle bags I am working on developing now. I have in my mind to produce luggage later, so lots of ideas are being worked on as my audience and I start to grow up.

madebyciriaco.us

IMAGES COURTESY Valine Brana

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