In the heart of East Harlem, where the streets hum with life, Chiriga Smalls known as Chee Smalls emerged from a vibrant community known as the 1199 Eastside Co-op that shaped her into the Senior Director of Product Development at Coach. Her journey is woven with resilience and ambition, much like the fabric of the garments she now crafts as Senior Director of Product Development at Coach.

Her fashion journey began at The Gap, where, as a teenager, she stepped into the world of visual merchandising. This role was more than dressing mannequins; it was about understanding color, texture, and presentation. Fashion became her refuge and an escape from the teasing she faced for her skin tone.

Initially she envisioned herself as a storyteller – think Oprah – but the call of fashion proved irresistible. A serendipitous connection led her to an internship and introduction to PR. Chee’s rise at Tommy Hilfiger and later at Coach was marked by her resolve and quest for knowledge While an executive assistant, she took night classes at FIT to master handbag creation and retail math.

Today, Smalls stands as a testament to the power of dreams and perseverance. Her journey embodies the belief that one’s past and community shape the future.

As you look back on your early career, how did you navigate the intricate challenges and corporate politics that shaped your journey? If spared from such trials, what insights would you offer those grappling with these complexities?

Navigating my early career was a mix of challenge and growth. I didn’t have the formal training that many of my peers had, which left me grappling with imposter syndrome and a constant question: “How do I earn their trust?” Initially, there was skepticism because I lacked familiarity with basic concepts like inside-out construction or different types of leather. I had to prove myself by developing a clear plan, laying a solid foundation, and executing it effectively.

Smartness alone isn’t sufficient; building relationships is crucial. It’s not just about what you know but who you know. My strong connection with our creative director is a testament to that. Despite the presence of levels above my role and the challenges of being one of the few Black individuals in a predominantly white space, I chose not to dwell on feeling isolated. Instead, I focused on making a memorable impact, being authentic, and earning trust through my unique presence and capabilities.

I advise facing challenges with courage, embracing your true self, recognizing your talents, and asserting your worth confidently.

Having spent over a decade at Coach, you’ve witnessed product evolution from its inception to its arrival in stores. How has your role influenced Coach’s appeal, particularly in attracting a younger audience compared to the brand’s presence in the 90s and early 00s? 

I must tread carefully regarding proprietary strategies. However, I can share that Coach has always been a leader in the fashion world. Since Stuart Vevers became our creative director in 2013, the brand has intentionally evolved its global perception, continuing the impactful legacy set by previous creative directors like Bonnie Cashin and Reed Krakoff. We’ve consistently been featured on Vogue’s list of “Best NYFW Fashion Shows,” and the rise of our Empire Carryall, sister brand Coachtopia, and the Tabby bag, along with platforms like TikTok, has brought Coach to the forefront of fashion visibility.

While my role primarily involves executing the design intent and overseeing the development process, my team and I ensure that the products are delivered on time, meet our cost and quality standards, and align with the designers’ vision. I handle strategic initiatives and communicate with manufacturers to ensure our designs are realized as intended.

Given the need to keep Coach’s offerings relevant and appealing to new and loyal customers, how do you stay ahead of trends? How do you determine when to modify elements like color or leather, and is this something you personally oversee or delegate to others?

Staying ahead of trends is primarily the responsibility of the merchandising and design teams rather than my role in execution. However, I do have a voice in the process. During discussions about assortments, I contribute feedback and opinions, such as expressing enthusiasm for certain designs or suggesting new ideas, like incorporating a color we might be missing. My role in product development is more about ensuring these ideas are effectively implemented. I work closely with product design to bring concepts to fruition.

When products come across my desk, they typically start as sketches. From there, I travel to collaborate with the factory and meet with the designer. We delve into details such as whether the item should drape, have a flap, feature two handles, and the look of the gusset and corners. I also assess the desired feel of the leather, whether it’s soft or otherwise.

Additionally, I work closely with the materials team to review our current leathers, explore new developments, and focus on cost engineering bags. I work with cross-functional partners to explore global initiatives that align with and carry out the overall business goals.

I’d like to ask about archival and vintage designs. Many people online frequently reminisce about certain Coach designs from the past that are no longer available.

The challenge with recreating exact archival designs lies in the evolution of materials and manufacturing processes. Materials and machinery have advanced over time, making reproducing the original materials or design elements difficult. While we can offer updated versions that capture the essence of the originals, exact replicas are often impossible due to these changes in materials and design innovation.

 What challenges do you face daily?

Each day presents its own set of challenges. From a product perspective, I deal with issues like color mismatches, delays in shipments and pivots in design intent. If a fabric or component doesn’t arrive or get approved on time, it cascades the entire process. I am constantly in solution mode, addressing these issues as they arise. For instance, if a construction fails during wear-testingI must resolve such quality concerns promptly to prevent customer returns. This responsibility falls on team and I  to uphold the high standards our customers expect.

On the flip side, there are days when everything aligns perfectly, and I have the opportunity to travel and experience different cultures. While creating exceptional products comes with challenges, it is a rewarding aspect of the role.

You juggle a demanding senior-level career with being a wife and mother to a college-age son and a teenage daughter. How do you balance all of this?

Balancing a demanding career with family life is a challenge I grapple with daily. I often find that excelling at work means home life suffers, and vice versa. The struggle to maintain this balance keeps me up at night and makes me sad, as I haven’t quite figured out how to manage it all seamlessly. I frequently miss my daughter’s track meets and other family events because of my work commitments.

My husband and I have been together for nearly 18 years, and I’ve learned to give myself grace. I’ve realized that it’s about prioritizing and setting up systems to manage both work and family responsibilities. I’ve focused on building a strong team that can handle things in my absence, allowing me to step away when needed, such as attending my daughter’s track meets.

Can you share the story behind your evolution as a digital fashion creator? What sparked your initial passion for content creation, and how has your journey transformed over time?

My journey as a digital fashion creator started in 2022, but my passion began in 2007, inspired by early fashion bloggers like Karen BritChick and Chiara Ferragni. While others followed beauty influencers, I found my spark in fashion blogs, fueling my desire to carve out my own niche. After earning a journalism degree, I faced numerous rejections from fashion publications, which led me to create my own blog as an outlet for my voice. I gained a small but loyal following before stepping back to focus on my career.

In 2022, the influencer trend reignited my creativity. I embraced video and photography, transforming my platform into a community space. Now, I help women build wardrobes that express their authentic selves, celebrating self-expression and empowerment. My journey is a continuous evolution, and I’m excited to see where it leads next.

Given your presence on social media, is there a deliberate strategy behind the content you share, or do you post what comes to mind at the moment?

Honestly, I don’t usually plan my content; I share what inspires me in the moment. My journey began when I received a stunning red blazer, and I felt compelled to share it. I grabbed my phone, styled it, and that spontaneous post marked my first fashion influencer moment. I’ve continued that approach—posting authentically based on my mood. When I over-plan, the content feels forced, and my audience can sense it.

That said, I’m becoming more strategic about my personal brand and the bigger picture. While I’m planning a bit more now, I still prioritize sharing what resonates with me. Authenticity has always been my focus, and I believe it’s what truly connects with people.

Looking back on your journey and achievements at Coach, what have you learned from your experiences, and how do you view their impact on your career and personal growth?

I’ve embraced my best friend’s advice: “Do it scared.” Sometimes, making progress requires taking a step back to move forward. Owning my career, a practice I started at The Gap by clearly communicating my goals and seeking support, has been essential. Regularly discussing plans with my husband and building strong relationships have also been crucial to my growth and success.

IG (Personal): @browngirl_chee

IG (Brand): @coach

Photo by Candace Howe Studios | IG: @candacehowe_